I felt like the upper was too bland in all black, and decided to add some color this weekend - I'm liking this much better.









I neglected before, to show how I wapped the color around the back of the tail.



NOW it's time for decals, clear-coat, and numbers.

 

I agree with the upper front needing something! It looks great with the red there!

You've come a long way with this project and I've read this topic whole way through multiple times. It's very inspiring to see this come to fruition from the stock-rocker that it once was to this!

I took your idea with the muffler shortening and did that to mine as well. I mainly did it for cosmetic purposes since it was scratched up pretty bad from the previous owner on one end. I didn't repack it, but that's on my to-do list while I'm hunkered down in the house for the winter.

Keep up the EXCELLENT work! Can't wait to see more!

 

JNSR - do you have any clear on that paint? When i painted my plastics, I would wetsand the base, then apply clear, lightly wetsand, another coat of clear, then wetsand into the 5000 grit range, then polish out with a rotary buffer and a super fine polishing compound.

While i know that may be more work than you're looking for with race plastics, a light polishing would bring a lot of shine to that good looking paint you've laid down.

 

Read the bottom of my last post...

Yeah, I've got the clear bought already, as a matter of fact, and will be working on that next - speaking of which, what grit should I use for the wet sand of the applied base coats? Since this is my first ever paint job, of any sort (except a Max Biaggi Yamaha 1:12 scale model ), I'm nervous about things that don't SEEM to make sense, like sanding on the work that I've already accomplished... that scares me! But, even though it will seem to dull/damage the top coats, are you saying that a gloss clear will keep that from showing? I'm sure you get where I'm coming from, being hesitant about sanding on it, but if that's what works, then that's what I'm gonna do, and clear-coating was always in the plan, I'm just worried about mucking up what I feel like is a pretty decent first-time job!

 

Also, Junky, I forgot to ask you something...

I've finally decided to chase down a good running F2, cosmetics are irrelevant, as I have my "street clothes" for this bike, that I can use on another one - this way I can leave this one in race trim, and not keep swapping it back and forth, which is a royal pain! I found one in West Monroe, for $800, that only needs a few things done (allegedly) - since West Monroe is a relatively small town, I wondered if you happen to know of a fellow that's selling one, and maybe it's my guy. Here is the Craigslist link:

1994 cbr 600 f2

Tell me if you know this guy.

 

If I come down and get it, maybe we can meet up, and have a brew...or two, or more...

 

Clear coat, graphics, more clear coat, and race numbers complete.



I might get 'em re-installed again tomorrow, to see how the finished product looks mounted on the bike.

 

Can do man!

No - I do not know the seller - don't see too many vintage hondas around here actually.

I'd be happy to go put eyeballs on the bike for you though - I've had mine stripped down and rebuilt it, so I'd be happy to let you know if anything glaring hops out at me.

 

Yes, I wet sanded the basecoat after a couple of coats. remember, I was spray-bombing using paint mixed by a auto paint store andput in aerosol cans for me.

A light wet sand takes some of the orange peel off before clear.

I did a lot of research, and you'll find both sides of the "sanding the base" argument.

I would lay on a good heavy (wet) coat of clear - I think I was using SEM brand products. then wetsand it. I probably did this for 2-3 coats depending on how the final was turning out.

I think I was wetsanding with 2000 grit first, then up to 5000ish. It's been a while though.

Then I polished with a good polishing compound.

 

I have a daily ebay search that shoots me an email if one pops up. I scored one for a Gixxer for $150, and Jamie Daugherty swapped me that one for a rebuilt/retuned F2 model with a new spring for the cost of a normal rebuild, so I think my total cash outlay was about $280??