hi doc.. ive got some issue with rpm.. ive already connect it to ignition coil... the tach run... but only going up to 5k... it seem it has devide the reading..
if standard speedo tach showing 10k.. this replica showing 5 k.. if im idle the standard meter showing2.. but this speedo showing 1k..

but tonight im gonna do like the diagram u drew.. with capasitor and resistor all that stuff.. anything i'll be update here..

*sorry for my bad english

 

No need to apologize for your English, it's fine. As someone who never learned more than a few phrases in any other language, I have a great respect for anyone who speaks more than one.

Do you have the real SS182 or the knockoff of the SS182? If it is the real SS182, what cylinder number setting are you using? If it is set to four cylinders, try changing the setting to two.

I don't know if the cylinder settings are the same for the knockoff SS182.

 

what are the different between real and knocoff?..
my bike run on 1 cylinder.. so the setting shud be 1 isn't it?
i'vv tried to change the setting to 2 and 4.. the tach doesnt even move..

 

The thread was started as a guide to installing the SS182 in a four cylinder CBR600F. There are pictures of the real SS182 and the knockoff in the thread. I had the opposite problem, my tach was reading twice as high as the real RPM. I had to set the cylinder number to 2 to get it to work in the four cylinder bike. I'm not sure how to get it to read correctly with a one cylinder bike.

 

well i have to figure it out my self then..
ive google about the problem.. and found this is the thread that active
discussing about this spedo..

but if it still doesnt work..
i'll buy the original koso then.. lol

thanks for your response doc..

 

I don't know if this is of any help as I have a Koso RX-2 gauge on my bike BUT just yesterday I was going through the user manual to have the settings configured and on that it said that on some one cylider bikes you have to set the gauge for 2-cycle (two stroke) engine to have the reading correct. On the Koso the setting is written like 4-3 which means four stroke-three cylinder So you'd have to change it to 2-2 to read right on a single. If the SS gauge has this option it might be worth a shot to try.

EDIT: quite confusingly the Koso manual was talking about cycles and pistons so the exact marking on my case was 4c-3p

 

nope the only setting that this speedo have... change between carb and efi.. and piston 1/2/4

 

@Mattson - yeah the real Koso has a lot more adjustments. The SS182 is more designed for masochists who think they are getting something for nothing. That would be me. You would think that at nearly 60 years of age I would know better.

@Japarson - My SS182 did not have a carb/EFI selection. I wonder if that might be worth trying to adjust, along the lines of what Mattson is describing. I'm trying to think of what would be different between the two, and I'm guessing it might be the number of sparks per cycle.

 

So this weekend I decided to try to fix the SS182 tach problem I was having. My Tach would only rise up to 10k rpm with my current set-up. I tried the .001 capacitor Doc B recommended with no success. The tach did not move at all with the .001 uf. Before I went back to my previous set up I decided to touched the two wires that were the junction between the capacitor. To my surprise the tach came to life, idling at 1200 rpm. I then tried to rev the motor to see how high the needle would go. Again to my surprise, the "needle" revved all the way to red line.

The only thing left for me to do now is wire up the speed sensor portion of the install. This part may not happen any time soon since the bike is currently in track trim and I really do not pay attention to my speed when I'm on the track, I only pay attention to my tach and if I need to know what my speed was at any point I pull the data from my lap timer.

 

Glad it worked out, but I'm not quite following what you did. Did you touch the wires at each end of the capacitor together, or just touch a wire junction with your hand?

Mine has done about 150 miles of commuting and has been working very well. The tach ran well with the stock coils, however the ancient stock coil pack setup was causing random engine missing throughout the rev range. So I recently changed over to stick coils. Bike runs much better now and the tach works just as well as it did with the coil packs.