You were right about the temperature gauge. I didnt let the bike warm up enough. While checking the tach, the engine was left running which had the temperature gauge go up after a while.

Regarding the ground, I will try to route the ss183 ground directly to the battery and see if that makes a difference. Did you ground the resister onto the same ground wire as well? I too wired connectors to attach onto the ss182 loom. I have the resister close to the connector and the capacitor mid point on the 5inch wire connected to the bike harness that was connected to the oem cluster. I cut the cluster oem connectors to get to the harness wires.

Our bike wire diagram is basically identical, the only ignition mod I did was the f4 coil stick ran in series. I had a spare ecu that I tried just to make sure that it was not a computer malfunction.

 

Ok direct ground to the battery did nothing to change the situation.

 

I suppose it's possible that the stick coils are doing something to the waveform to make it different than the waveform I see on my setup with stock coil packs. Without a scope it's a little tough to figure out what the problem is. My suggestion would be to tap into the pulse generator output and see if the tach will at least respond to that. Once you have that established we can try to figure out what to do next.

 

I finally got it to work... I thought that maybe I was not getting a pulse signal so I went to the 99 cent store and picked up a test light. I couldn't find my multimeter so I figured I'd do a quick light test for rpm signal. I attached the test light to ground then touched the green yellow wire, and I got signal. I went to the other side of the capacitor and no signal. WTF is the capacitor busted? I went back to the green yellow wire and again, I got a signal. I took a peak to see what was going on with the dash, that's when I realized I had proper RPM reading. Basically, the first drawing illustration I sent you is how it had to be wired for my bike. The resister go on the green/yellow wire and capacitor junction then attached to ground. It's cold and dark right now so I'll properly wire the system tomorrow and check if this set-up will work on the fake ss182 also.


Even if I didn't figure it out this way, I think I would have figured it out by experimenting. I took apart the oem cluster and the circuitry show that the rpm signal went to a resister then another resister that then junction with a capacitor input and ground input, just like my drawing, except with an additional resister. I don't know **** about resisters and capacitors so I was just going to pull the ones on the OEM cluster and wire them in the same manner... I think that would have made it work also

 

Excellent job of sorting it out! It's always a little uncomfortable to suggest that someone may have simply miswired something, so I decided to wait to see how things shook out. That is a part of tech support we share at my work, just to avoid the occasional kit building customer who gets insulted by the suggestion. Which cracks us up, because we spend an awful lot of time asking one another to look over each other's work to spot the mistakes on our own builds. It's an unavoidable part of DIY.

Basically the capacitor works with the resistor to clean up the signal. The cap alone blocks 12VDC and just lets the squarewave/spikes through. If the resistor is after the cap (that is, on the tach side) it works with the cap it to filter the signal. If it is ahead of the cap (on the ECU side) it will also tend to shunt the DC and the squarewave/spike signal to ground. So it may be that the way you have it wired is lowering the signal to a level the tach likes better

I hear you about cold and dark - dying to work on the bike tonight but my garage is about 28 degrees tonight and drafty. I did get a Stebel Compact Nautilus horn installed last night before the thermometer took a dive. Holy c**p! If you honk one of these things at someone and they don't react I think you can assume they are dead.

 

Just an FYI, I wired the ss182 today and the cluster is working great. I still have to attach the magnets to the rotor and affix the bracket. The magnets I received from the seller have a sticky double sided tape on it. That made me think about what we discussed of how the magnet is probably strong enough to not fly off. I was thinking, if I use a better glue, like Gorilla glue, to stick it on the rotors, I think it may stay put. I was worried about it sliding off during movement but the glue should keep it from sliding and the magnet keep it on the rotor. This sound much easier then trying to figure out odd placed to get the magnet positioned. What do you think? Also, what wheel dimension did you use for the speedometer?


BTW, the fake ss182 did not work with the ss182 wiring. I don't know why and honestly, since my unit is working I've lost all desire to try and figure it out. For now they will be shelf until I run out of priorities to do with my build.


At least you have a garage, I'm forced to work outside... I only have a shed where I keep my Cross plain R1. That's another build I've been doing since I got the bike but I love the bike too much to risk it on the track, so the CBR will be the track bike.


Nice, the Stebel Compact Nautilus horn is a really loud air horn. I installed one for a friend on his K8 750. He love the horn and it's been over two years and the horn is still working, so the reliability seems to be there.

 

I don't recall what I ended up with for a circumference number and besides, my tire may be a little bit different size than yours. The best way to do it is put a piece of tape across the tread of your tire, rotate the tire so the tape is on the floor, and mark that spot on the floor. Roll the bike forward until the tape touches the floor again and measure the distance from the first floor mark. Convert to mm and punch that number into the speedo.

 

Just wanted to post a video of my SS182 cluster installed. I still have not installed the speed sensor. I plan to take care of that this weekend and possibly put together the bike with the track gear then start planning for the next set of mods.

 

Looking good, very smooth response of the needle. Sounds really nice too.

 

By the way that R1 in the other videos is gorgeous.