Yes it is! Here's what I will speculate -

I think the voltage needing to be in a certain range idea was off base, as the pulse magnitude is kind of all over the place, maybe 8V to 40V. I think what may be happening is the tach wants to see skinny pulses rather than square waves. The .01 uF cap combined with either the resistance of the scope probe or the 100K resistor creates a filter that changed the square wave with the big spike at the front edge that comes from the tach output into a spike with a sloping tail. So the duration of the pulse looks shorter, on average. I think maybe that separates the pulses better so the tach can recognize them at higher RPMs. The 100K resistor and the .01 cap just seem to create an optimal filter value.

Without knowing exactly how the tach works that is strictly a SWAG. Anyway, I have a tach and now I can move on to the next thing, which is getting the trigger for the electronic steering damper connected and tested.

 

I have no idea what you did to make it work. Can you please explain it like you did in the beginning of this thread. Example, " stick x resister to blue wire" and maybe a picture or crappy diagram thats labeled. Also bad luck for me, I did a bench install on my unit. The pos is not letting me go into the configeration menu. I press the A and B button together as per the instructions and all it does is change the time. Am I doing it right?

 

Ok I stopped being lazy and tried to understand your instructions. What I got was this diagram, is it accurate?

 

Just move the end of the 100K resistor that you have attached to the yellow/green tach output wire over to the other side of the cap so it is attached to the SS182 input wire and you got it. Also you can attach the grounded end of the resistor to the ground wire connection of the tach. That makes it easy to fit the parts up close to the tach connector.



I'm not sure how much difference it makes but in my setup that tach ground wire runs all the way back to the negative battery terminal rather than using the ground wire for the old instrument cluster.

 

After you enter the setup mode by pressing A and B together for a few seconds you should see the four digit wheel circumference reading across the bottom. Just keep pressing B and you will move through those numbers up to the mile/km setting and then the cylinder setting in the upper right corner. To change the cylinder number press A. I think that is all explained in the instructions that came with your gauge. This thread on the Custom Fighters forum has them posted:

Wiring Chinese Koso Replica RX2n gauges - Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum

 

Thanks for confirming how to go into configuration mode, The custom fighter forum is were I initially got the instructions on how to use the unit. The seller did not ship out instructions with my unit. When I press the AB buttons together all that happens is the hours on the clock begins to count up. I tried all combinations of AB A and B to no affect. When I remove power from the unit and hold AB together then give it power, all of the functions light up and I get a three series digit then a space followed by a two series digit on the bottom of the screen, everything else is blank. I can change those numbers but it does nothing and I'm stuck in that mode until I remove power and reset the system. I've reached out for the seller about the problem and will see what they say.

 

Sounds like maybe only the A button is working? If you press B only, can you cycle through the odometer readouts?
Also, I don't know if it makes any difference, but do you have both the constant 12V wire and the switched 12V wire on the tach connected to power when you are testing? i think maybe that constant 12v wire only affects the red LEDS and the clock memory, but I'm not sure.

 

I'm going to have to retest to recall which button was not working, from what I recall both buttons had there issues. What I'm 100% sure is that pressing both A and B button together the A take over... I did every combination of wiring with no luck. I tried with and without the constant 12V, tried powering and grounding the other features, I even tried up down up down, left right left right select start....


The seller got back to me and will send me a new unit. Until then, I will have to purchase the required resister and capacitor. Where can I purchase these things at? I'm not too familiar with capacitors or resisters to go into a store and pick up what I need. Will auto zone have it or will I need to go somewhere like radioshack?

 

It's easier for me to walk to our stock room and pull them for you than to spend time looking on the Radio Shack website. PM your address and I'll mail some to you.

 

Here's a pic of the bracket I fabbed up for the speedo sensor. Pretty plain and simple.