Chinese SS182 digital speedo installation tips
#41
Mine is going to be touch more complex, I do not have a mounting bracket in the area like yours. My bracket will have to be attached on the lower caliper bolt then a hole have to be cut in the fabricated bracket for the rubber piece to go through then another hole for the sensor. Something like the attached picture. How did you attach the magnet? my magnet is too large and it look like I will have to find somewhere to order a new one or more fabrication is in my future.
#42
I found a pic of the F3 front fork online and it looks like one might be able to make a smaller bracket that just extends straight down from the lower caliper bracket mount? Looks like that might put it right over the disc bolt heads. The magnets that came with my tach dropped right into the hex holes on the Allen head disc bolts. I imagine you could find the right size somewhere online. I would be sure to get neodymium, test which pole works best when swept by the sensor, and mount it in the bolt with that pole facing out. By the way, more magnets will give you better resolution at low speed. I'm stuck with two because that is the number of pulses per wheel rev that my electronic steering damper is looking for, but the speedo will handle a lot more.
#43
#44
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#46
I guess I was looking at a pic of a different year F3 or maybe an F2 wheel, as the brake disc was mounted more like an F1 wheel, bolted right to holes drilled into the wheel, without the separate gold inner disc. They were positioned at a radius sort of in between the outer ring of holes and the inner ones on your wheel. I was thinking like red, but it could have been much shorter with that different wheel setup. Blue looks promising, sure looks like you could put a magnet in that inner bolt head instead of one of the outer ones.
The magnets on mine were just the right diameter to drop into the hex hole in the disc mounting bolts. I would suggest measuring the size of the hole in the X'd bolt and look for the biggest neodymium disc magnet that will drop into the hex hole. These guys have all sorts of 'em:
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=10
The magnets on mine were just the right diameter to drop into the hex hole in the disc mounting bolts. I would suggest measuring the size of the hole in the X'd bolt and look for the biggest neodymium disc magnet that will drop into the hex hole. These guys have all sorts of 'em:
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=10
Last edited by Doc B.; 10-30-2014 at 02:06 PM.
#47
Nice, this is some great info you've post on this thread... And you are right, the F2 rotors are more like your set up; the F3 rotors were made differently. Also, when you dropped the magnet in the hole, did you glue it in? And if so, what are your plans if you ever need to remove the rotors?
#48
Once you drop one of those magnets in the bolt head you won't need to worry about it falling out. Neo magnets have scary strong magnetic fields. I think to pull them out you would have to use another neo magnet that would pull with more force than the steel bolt. But I haven't worried about it since my discs are brand new.
Actually the magnet may hold with enough force that you could just stick it to the gold disc itself. I don't know how well it would hold up with the centripetal force being generated only by the magnetic attraction, though. It may stay stuck but want to walk out to the edge of the disc over time.
Actually the magnet may hold with enough force that you could just stick it to the gold disc itself. I don't know how well it would hold up with the centripetal force being generated only by the magnetic attraction, though. It may stay stuck but want to walk out to the edge of the disc over time.
Last edited by Doc B.; 10-30-2014 at 03:21 PM.
#49
I received my fake Koso ss182 today, I did another bench install and again, it did the same thing as the previous unit, where it was not letting me go into the configuration screen. I wired up everything except the resistance wires and gear indicator wires and still nothing. I went on YouTube and saw that other people were able to do the bench install and go into the configuration screen. Their unit start up didn't even look how mine starts up when power is introduced. I then began to think about it and I believe they sold me a fake ss182... Hold up, a boot leg of the boot leg koso? Ok, so why would I come up with something that sound so silly, right? Well 1st, when you emailed me a picture of your speed sensor, I noticed that our sensors were different. 2nd, my x1000 rpm is writing on top, right below the 12rpm while yours is written towards the lower part of the cluster. 3rd, I went on line and noticed that some sellers have the picture of the back of the ss182 and the units have ss182 stamped on the back while mine does not have any writing on the back. The first unit I received wire colors matched the ss182 install guild while the second unit wire colors were completely different (if I received the second unit first, no way I would be able to do the installation), both my unit did not come with any instructions and lastly, why would there be so many different reviews on the product? Some people saw it as complete garbage while others say it works great. Well, just some food for thoughts as I try to make sure my statement is sound and figure out what's my next move...