ambeos5, I guess maybe the last thing would be to open the case up and determine if you have the SS182 (i.e. the Koso ripoff), or the fake SS182 (the ripoff of the ripoff). Might not get it working, but might add more useful info to the thread.

Kyle, I suggest finding someone local to you who has the electronics knowledge to help you put the extra parts in. If it is actually a genuine SS182 try the cap and resistor filter, with the hot end of the resistor between the cap and tach. And also try the hot end of the resistor between the cap and ECU tach output, since it seems to work differently on different models.

Guys, believe me, I do feel your frustration. I've been designing electronic gear for 20 years and it took a lot of trial and error to get my tach to work.

 

I will try my best lol was waiting for someone else to resurrect this thread

 

Are you really in WV?

 

Doc, i know that i have the fake ss182 (knockoff of a knockoff)

 

I think the only info in this thread about the fake SS182 is that Sabotage could never get it to work at all. He ended up getting a real SS182 (aka fake Koso), which he did get working with a little different setup than I used (no capacitor, just a resistor from the SS182 tach input to ground).

 

So in your opinion what would be the cause that i am getting no signal to the guage from the stock tach wire. in laymans terms

 

There are a few different possibilities.

One is that the tach is looking for a signal with a different voltage range. The added resistor can help with that on a real SS182 by making the signal pulse from the ECU smaller. That seemed to help both me and Sabotage.

another is that the tach signal may be too noisy for the tach to respond to properly. The cap and the resistor together can create a filter that takes some of the spiky noise off the signal. That seemed to help in my situation with an F1.

thirdly, since we don't have any evidence in this thread of the fake fake working at all, it might just not work, period. Since it looks completely different inside it may need a completely different setup to run. The typical solution for the really cheap Chinese tachs is to wrap some wire around the #1 spark plug wire and feed that signal into the tach. Maybe it would work that way?

 

Ok well i just found where the stock tach lead on my bike goes.....straight to the CDI disconnect that and the tach lead has no power(except i couldnt get it to go back in and the little connector snapped)

 

this fake gauge is the biggest waste of 50 bucks and a piece of trash, i honestly don't see how the real koso would work any better (as in easier to install) how can you sell a fake of a fake for 10 bucks less, didn't know the difference until it came to me and it was advertised as a ss182

 

the difference is in the parts quality used to biuld them, Doc ill check mine this weekend if i get time and let you know.