Thanks man, that R1 is my baby, but not as fun to work on or ride like the F3. If the R1 was your mature, refined, successful wife, the F3 role in the equation would be your 20 year old mistress that's just fun and freaky but you'd be nuts to leave your wife for. That video was from last winter and since then I've added the M1 tank cover, bazzaz QS, Ek3D 520 chain and driven sprocket, light weight rear rotor, CAB auto blipper, Rizoma brake reservoirs and graves front sprocket cover. I was going to do the ohlins shocks but decided to use the money to build the F3 for the track instead. I'm glad I did because during the build I've met some wonderful people, like you, and have learned so much about humanity.

 

So this weekend, I started the bike to warm it since it's been a few days since I last warmed the bike. After the bike was warmed, I wanted to see the shift light so I revved the bike to 10k rpm. The needle appeared as if it was shorting out at high revs. This problem is not the ss182 malfunctioning; the problem was there before I changed cluster. My previous cluster was falling apart and I thought the short circuit like display was due to the physical break down of the cluster that was affecting the electronics. But now that its a complete different cluster and the problem is still there then the grimlin must be cdi, ground wire, or signal wire shorting. Based on the wire diagram, those should be the only options. I'll try to figure it out on the first above freezing temperature day we have

 

That's the kind of problem that is a lot easier to figure out with an oscilloscope. Is the engine running right at those revs, or does it stutter? If the engine is running clean then the ECU must be getting good signal to the coils. The tach signal comes from the ECU signal at the input side of one of the coil packs, so you might want to check over the connections from your stick coil mod, and maybe run a ground wire from the 182 back to the battery if you haven't already.

 

1) The engine is running right all the time, no stutter
2) If the stick coils were not wired right, would the bike not stutter or show signs of faulty wiring?
3) My wire diagram does not break down the make up inside the ECU, but the pulse generator signal go into the ECU and the spark signal come out of the ECU and the tach signal also come out of the ECU. What do you mean by "The tach signal comes from the ECU signal at the input side of one of the coil packs" Is this happening inside the ECU?
4) I'm not familiar with a oscilloscope. How is it used and how would I use it to determine my problem?
5) "run a ground wire from the 182 back to the battery if you haven't already" Next thing on the agenda
6) Also, the bike used to run fine with the stick coils then one day started going haywire, but at the same time the cluster was breaking apart so I thought they were related.

Thanks

 

If I remember correctly, on my bike the tach signal wire is just an extension of the wire from the ECU to input of the left side coil pack. If that is correct (I will check the schematics tonight) the possible problem point could be where that wire branches off from the coil pack to the tach. But if instead you have a dedicated wire coming directly from the ECU to the tach, that would be one to look at for sure.

If the problem is just happening at high rpms it could just be that a less than perfect connection is reducing the signal quality. That would tend to get worse as the rpms get higher and the spark pulses are shorter duration.

A scope will show how clean and clear the square wave looks. You would be able to see if it's cutting out or if there is interference or other deviations.

 

Hey Dimitry,

For some reason I was looking back over this thread. I know the thread is getting old, but if you never got that issue with the tach cutting out at 10k resolved, I just had an idea. You might try a capacitor value smaller than .01 uF. Maybe like .005 or even .001.

 

How's everything? Actually, I have not been able to look into it as of yet, peak season hit my place of work which had me doing 15 hour days and weekends in December. January came around and the weather was just not ideal to be working outside, with temperatures in the low teens. For February my back yards and the bike is under three feet of snow. I wish I had a garage to work in, but I do not so until the weather become a little bit more bearable, all I can do is plan out what needs to take place. I will make sure to try a different capacitor to see if that fix the problem. Thanks again for steering me in the right direction...

 

Three feet, you have my sympathy! For once we are having a mellow winter here in the Northwet. I've been getting a few short rides in while I sort out an overrich problem. The symptoms tend to indicate that I should have not been such a cheapass and should have replaced the float valves when I had the carb rack apart. Ah well, hopefully the third time into the carbs is a charm.

 

Hi, just letting you know that the snow finally melted this week. I ordered the .001 630v capacitor and will install it to see if my limited rev will be fixed. I have 24 days until my track day at NJMP so I have to get the bike buttoned up within the next couple of weeks. I work during the weekday and play the father role when I get home so weekends will be my primary days to get everything done.

 

Got my fingers crossed for you. My SS182 is still running like a champ. I had toyed with the idea of working up a way to use the SS182's Suzuki style gear indicator with the CBR, but it would mean doing up a rather overly complex microprocessor circuit. I ended up buying a cheapo ebay hall effect sensor type gear indicator, that I will attach to the left end of the SS182. I suspect that after I put it on I won't even look at it, but what the heck.