Boy that's cheap!!! I need new tyres soon and I'm thinking of going with them as well but they aren't that price in NZ!!!
Let us know how they go Sprock?

 

Will do Robbie

 

mounted new mich pilot front and noticed i need new front wheel bearings.anybody got a good place to get quality bearings?

 

What's your location?

 

Finally did the Dan Moto 3D Bars today. Pics tomorrow
Some issues with it but nothing that could not be
overcome by sheer brute force and ignorance

Edit 4/29 as promised DanMoto 3D Bars (41MM)
Recommend - however a lot of work to fit and a
few issues relative to the hardware !





With the tires for the 87
went with Conti Motion
in the end - (good reviews)
150 70 17 & 120 70 17
$164.00 shipped ....lol
@ SportbikeTrackGear

 

I cleaned out my shop and rolled the old girl in for a few things I just haven't gotten around to but really wanted to take care of.

Pulled the carbs off, cleaned them up and set the pilot screws to 3 turns (also cut off the limit tabs so I can adjust them on the bike now). I found 2 floats set a tad high.

Pulled the cam cover off and resealed it. I had re-used the original seal when I adjusted the valves last and it was seeping oil on the front. Annoying when it got on the the exhaust pipes. Replaced all the head cover bolts with new ones.

Changed the coolant hose I missed when I replaced them about 2 months ago. (It was on a different page in the fiche, didn't see it.)

Synched the carbs.

Washed and waxed her.

 

I had the valves adjusted by our local custom shop, great place. I was having some "lean running" issues around 6k rpm. The shop put the bike on the dyno and confirmed it was running lean all over the rpms so I turned idle screws out to 2.5 turns main jets are 125 on cylinders 1 and 4 with 127.5 on cylinders 2 and 3. Needle has 2 spacers for now. Running allot better, no flat spots now, just that great roll on power of a liter bike. Will get it back to the dyno for another test soon. Oh by the way cylinder 4 was the only one that needed the valves adjusted, the other 3 were spot on. First time they were checked and I have 14,600 miles on the odometer and now I don't have that valve ticking sound when first starting up.

 

Recovered / Upholstered 2 Seats for an 87 & 96 1000F - now my mitts are all swelled up !
This would not be one of my preferred jobs to be doing to bikes - a real pain in the neck

 

Just a reminder, the 55 in that tire is the ratio of sidewall to width. It is 55% of the 170mm width.

On my '94 I replaced my 170/60 with a 180/55 tire.

Now the math;
old tire- 170mm x .60 = 102mm sidewall
new tire- 180mm x .55 = 99mm sidewall

102mm - 99mm = 3mm rear axle drop.

The 180mm width is only 5mm per side of center and only 3mm rear rim drop. I can get that 3mm drop (in the bike's overall geometry) by putting on a few pounds. I can buy many brands of 180/55 and am limited to the 170/60's.

Your 170/55 has 93.5mm sidewall.
A 150/70 has 105mm sidewall.
That's a 11.5mm rear axle drop.

The stock 140/80 has a 112mm sidewall.
One size bigger 150/60 has 90mm sidewall.
That's 22mm axle drop.

Bottom line;
140/80 stock tire has 112mm sidewall,
the 150/70 has 105
and the 150/60 has only 90.

For proper geometry I personally think the 150/70 is a better match.


Squeezing a large tire on a small rim, I think is looking for trouble. The 170 may be to big, as well as a 160.

 

You did see this a little further up I assume

But your calculations are as always - impeckerable
Screech anyone ?