Stock mufflers - how to remove/mod baffles or packing
#71
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guys I driled mine over the weekend. Drilled 3 holes like Whitehawk but went with 3/8 on all the holes. I like the sound when the rpms are above idle, but cant stand the sound at idle. When idling it sounds like a 4 cylinder chevette with a manifold leak.
Any ideas? Its not that loud so maybe i need to open the holes up bigger, or drill more holes.
Any ideas? Its not that loud so maybe i need to open the holes up bigger, or drill more holes.
Its caused by not quite enough holes or the holes are to small ...
I recon you have both problems ....
I would say that the 3 X 3/8th holes are a bit too small ..
Check out Indiana's He went with the 1/2 inch holes , and I think X 4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xeMn...er_profilepage
#72
#73
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Location: Republic of Boon Island
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It's where I work..............cuz I park my bike in the garage with the
cop bikes.........and they keep DB meters in their boxes..................
So I try to make sure we get along without perceived issues !
#74
#77
bicklebok, yes he threads them in.
It sounds to me like he'a almost talking about a set screw (they are headless).
Something like this...
However, I planned on using a smooth head socket screw like this...
I'd be worried about losing a set screw down the pipe (although, like sprock said... it's a tight fit)
The reason for not using a regular hex bolt is because they probably wouldn't fit. I think I may be able to get the smooth hex in there, though....
It sounds to me like he'a almost talking about a set screw (they are headless).
Something like this...
However, I planned on using a smooth head socket screw like this...
I'd be worried about losing a set screw down the pipe (although, like sprock said... it's a tight fit)
The reason for not using a regular hex bolt is because they probably wouldn't fit. I think I may be able to get the smooth hex in there, though....
#78
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Almost Dylan, the first set, only half the depth and carbonised hard steel.
You go slightly bigger than 1/2 inch then self tap them in using the hex bolts.
(set screws as you call them Dylan)
I have threaded them in and out a few times .......and they stayed tight.
If one gets loose ......little bit of jbweld or epoxy putty while threading back
in will hold 'em
Dunno what yer plan was with those second ones Dylan ? ! They'd need to be
2 1/2 to 3 inches long to hit the inner baffle wall to get a grip
You go slightly bigger than 1/2 inch then self tap them in using the hex bolts.
(set screws as you call them Dylan)
I have threaded them in and out a few times .......and they stayed tight.
If one gets loose ......little bit of jbweld or epoxy putty while threading back
in will hold 'em
Dunno what yer plan was with those second ones Dylan ? ! They'd need to be
2 1/2 to 3 inches long to hit the inner baffle wall to get a grip
Last edited by Sprock; 08-18-2009 at 08:08 PM.
#79
Ha ha..
I didn't mean those exact screws, sprock. In fact, those second one's would never work, you're right... way too long and they aren't threaded all the way.
I was just trying to show them with and without heads, in case he was worried about them dropping in. I should have mentioned that.
Full sized hex heads I think are too big to fit within the lip on the can.
You could probably use a threadlocker, too. (probably blue would be best...but I don't see why red wouldn't be ok.)
I didn't mean those exact screws, sprock. In fact, those second one's would never work, you're right... way too long and they aren't threaded all the way.
I was just trying to show them with and without heads, in case he was worried about them dropping in. I should have mentioned that.
Full sized hex heads I think are too big to fit within the lip on the can.
If one gets loose ......little bit of jbweld or epoxy putty while threading back
in will hold 'em
in will hold 'em
Last edited by kilgoretrout; 08-18-2009 at 08:15 PM.
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