I just fitted a throttle lock on my '95. I had to take off the handle bar and drill a new locator hole a little further along to get it to fit.

I had to remove the brake fluid reservoir and I noticed the brake line was rubbing on the handle bar so I loosened it to rotate it away only to notice there was a lump on the bar that stopped it. Then I realised all I needed to do was rotate the whole hand brake thing to get the brake line away from the handle bar.

The front brake doesn't work anymore... would that be from letting air into the system or something else?

 

Yes!
air in = no brake
rebleed = brake back!
Enjoy!

Fred

 

ok... now I'm stuck, I've never played with linked brakes before... I found this thread which mentions a secondary cylinder orifice bolt... where's that?

I remember reading about bleeding brakes by attaching a clear plastic tube to each nipple, and letting gravity cycle the fluid through over night.

My brake fluid is probably well over due for replacing so I want to get all the old fluid out of all pipes...

 

Our brakes are a PITA being linked. I just bled mine about 2 weeks ago and you have to follow the manual to a T. The oriface bolt is on the tree on the left side (looking as a rider) just above the front fender. Do you have the service manual? If not its kind of hard to describe the whole process. Let me see if I can find the PDF manual so you can take a look at that.

*EDIT* Here is the thread on the manuals: https://cbrforum.com/m_123412/tm.htmTake a look at those. They should help a lot, I know they did for me.

MDFF

 

Hello
Here is a tip that always worked for meon any bike with hidraulic brakes. If you got air in the brake line in the upper part (pump) tight back the bolt realy well (check for leaks) steer and lean the bike in such a way that the rezervoir where you have the brake fluid is leaned towards the brake line. Let me explain better. You have the brake pump on theright side of the bars, that means you have to steer left and lean the bike on the left side. Basicly when you remove the rezervoir cover you have 2 holes. The hole closer to the lever should be higher then the other one or with other words.... you have brake line, brake pump and lever -» put the bike in such a way that you have the lever higher then the brake line position. Do you get my point? That will make the feed hole(the onetowards the lever) to be the highest point in the entire brake sistem.
Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid, and in the described postion start pumping slowly. (do not mees around withe the bleeders from the calipers yet). If you see bubles of air exiting thru one of the holes, you are doing it wright. This always worked for me for pumps thar wore removed completely from the bike!
sorry for the long explanation, explaning is not my best ....
Hope you understood my point, if not I'll make some pics do demonstrate better. This method also works when changing brake fluid or any bleeding, at least will make the process easier.
best of luck!

p.s. if this does not work then do the bleeding by the manual

 

I loosened the orifice bolt onto the circlip and bled the six nipples until my new blue brake fluid replaced the old yellow stuff and then some.

Some of the old brake fluidat the rear brake was milky which means it had water in it. It's all freash blue fluid throughout now.

I thought I could hear air squelching through something when I was pumping the rear nipples but the new blue fluid had no bubbles in it.

I tightened all the nipples and also the orifice bolt and everything seems to be working smoothly.

Can anyone suggest what the squelching sound may be?

It's a beautiful day out and it's a crime that I'm stuck with no bike until I have this sorted!

Turns out the rear nipple on the rear pad isn't getting a tight seal so It's continuously letting bubbles through...

I hosed off the spilt brake fluid and will check it again after I've been for a ride.

Thanks for the tips... I now consider myself a proficient in bleeding

 

Awesome, glad to hear you got it. Now write up a how-to.

MDFF