1st Wheelie attempt
#11
10-19-2006, 09:58 PM
RE: 1st Wheelie attempt
i am trying to teach a buddy how to do wheelies in 2nd. he has been trying like a sob but just cant do it. i can tell you this, he always braces his self for acceleration and he doesnt pull back . alot of people say " dont pull back , because you will turn your bars" you do not need to really pull back. the best way i can explain it is, how people do back flips on dirt bikes. arms straight and pull your head back. this will prevent you from pushing down on the bike. i personally pull back because it gets you to bp faster. i can get them up in 3rd by pullin up. and the other thing he doesnt keep in the gas when he clutches it. the bike will rev really high but that doesnt mean you are giving it enough gas, you can hit the rev limiter at 1/4 throttle, but that aint enough to clutch it in 2nd. hope this helps you guys .
Ben
Ben
#12
10-20-2006, 04:06 PM
RE: 1st Wheelie attempt
I am actully doing wheelies in second gear with out clutching it up i do have gearing -1 +2 but i can't just crack the throttle and pull it up if u have the gearing i do and u don't know how to clutch it then all i u have to do is get into second gear between 5 and 6 thousand rpm quickly let off the throttle jump down on the front end and crack the throttle back open to about half throttle or a little more let the front end come up and when u are comfortable with the height or u get to bp just let off the throttle a little to stay at bp i havn't found bp yet but when u can pull a wheelie up at 5000 rpm u have from 5000-13000 rpm to keep it up i can go about a 1/4 mile with mine. I hope this helps out alot of u new guys on here. And from experience i will tell u that u need to have alot experience on 2 wheels b4 trying to wheelie. Oh and also i do all my wheelies standing up keep your legs and arms straight after u bounce on the front end and lean back a little bit it will come up everytime!! Have fun and be safe!!!!!!!
#13
10-20-2006, 07:01 PM
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RE: 1st Wheelie attempt
Hey Jon Boy (and all, for that matter), avoid dumping the clutch when going from one gear to another. This greatly increases the chance of a bent shift rod, because you have not yet engaged the gear--if you accidentally do not fully shift, (which happens more often than you think) you could seriously bend a shift rod when you "dump" the clutch.
To anyone who is trying to ride wheelies: Practice is the only thing that will make you better. Trust me, a 600RR will wheelie in 1st, second, and third with stock gearing. Almost any motorcycle will wheelie, with the right rider. Lower gearing WILL help you bring it up, but it will not make you a better stunter---only practice will. Lower gearing will only help you bring it at a lower speed. (more torque)
Don't give up or resort to trying to add more power or lower gears. Just practice!!!!
-Adam
To anyone who is trying to ride wheelies: Practice is the only thing that will make you better. Trust me, a 600RR will wheelie in 1st, second, and third with stock gearing. Almost any motorcycle will wheelie, with the right rider. Lower gearing WILL help you bring it up, but it will not make you a better stunter---only practice will. Lower gearing will only help you bring it at a lower speed. (more torque)
Don't give up or resort to trying to add more power or lower gears. Just practice!!!!
-Adam
#14
10-22-2006, 04:02 AM
RE: 1st Wheelie attempt, power On tips
The Safe and controllable way is to ride it out to 4000 in 1st (20-25mph), shift your butt back , pinch in your knees to the tank, ***** of your feet on the pegs (cover the rear brake, if you have to bail out). dip the power to 3800 , and snap the power as the front fork rebounds (grap some extra throttle as you dip the power), keep your weight back and ride it out with more power as needed . Keep the rev up until you hit the ballance point then slight (no chop) less power to keep it ballanced. Take you time. Make sure you have room to stop. I have busted so many parts trying to do them slow. Popping the clutch is hard to control, rebounding is much more predictable and controlable. And fun vs scary .
Use the rear brake with power when you get around 11 oclock to help find the ballance point then just slight power . Hold on tight with knees if it comes down hard, you don't want to come off the bike (sticky stuff on the tank helps. leather pants are good slippery pants are not as good) . I stunt in full leathers , gloves and back armor. and boots over the ancles. And helmet
Hints , relax your arms. Throttle control is what you are learing. You can't be stiff.
Never pull on the handle bars, your a fool if you think you are going to lift a 400+lb cycle with your noodle arms. What acctually happens is that you pull your own weight forward over the tank causing your wheelie to be very low if it gets off the ground at all.
Weight back arms long and relaxed.
Last tip don't look at the tach, listen for it werrrrrrrrr is about 4000, dip then snap Zrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Am I funny yet
Use the rear brake with power when you get around 11 oclock to help find the ballance point then just slight power . Hold on tight with knees if it comes down hard, you don't want to come off the bike (sticky stuff on the tank helps. leather pants are good slippery pants are not as good) . I stunt in full leathers , gloves and back armor. and boots over the ancles. And helmet
Hints , relax your arms. Throttle control is what you are learing. You can't be stiff.
Never pull on the handle bars, your a fool if you think you are going to lift a 400+lb cycle with your noodle arms. What acctually happens is that you pull your own weight forward over the tank causing your wheelie to be very low if it gets off the ground at all.
Weight back arms long and relaxed.
Last tip don't look at the tach, listen for it werrrrrrrrr is about 4000, dip then snap Zrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Am I funny yet
#15
10-23-2006, 01:50 PM
RE: 1st Wheelie attempt, power On tips
ORIGINAL: cbr9rr98
The Safe and controllable way is to ride it out to 4000 in 1st (20-25mph), shift your butt back , pinch in your knees to the tank, ***** of your feet on the pegs (cover the rear brake, if you have to bail out). dip the power to 3800 , and snap the power as the front fork rebounds (grap some extra throttle as you dip the power), keep your weight back and ride it out with more power as needed . Keep the rev up until you hit the ballance point then slight (no chop) less power to keep it ballanced. Take you time. Make sure you have room to stop. I have busted so many parts trying to do them slow. Popping the clutch is hard to control, rebounding is much more predictable and controlable. And fun vs scary .
Use the rear brake with power when you get around 11 oclock to help find the ballance point then just slight power . Hold on tight with knees if it comes down hard, you don't want to come off the bike (sticky stuff on the tank helps. leather pants are good slippery pants are not as good) . I stunt in full leathers , gloves and back armor. and boots over the ancles. And helmet
Hints , relax your arms. Throttle control is what you are learing. You can't be stiff.
Never pull on the handle bars, your a fool if you think you are going to lift a 400+lb cycle with your noodle arms. What acctually happens is that you pull your own weight forward over the tank causing your wheelie to be very low if it gets off the ground at all.
Weight back arms long and relaxed.
Last tip don't look at the tach, listen for it werrrrrrrrr is about 4000, dip then snap Zrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Am I funny yet
The Safe and controllable way is to ride it out to 4000 in 1st (20-25mph), shift your butt back , pinch in your knees to the tank, ***** of your feet on the pegs (cover the rear brake, if you have to bail out). dip the power to 3800 , and snap the power as the front fork rebounds (grap some extra throttle as you dip the power), keep your weight back and ride it out with more power as needed . Keep the rev up until you hit the ballance point then slight (no chop) less power to keep it ballanced. Take you time. Make sure you have room to stop. I have busted so many parts trying to do them slow. Popping the clutch is hard to control, rebounding is much more predictable and controlable. And fun vs scary .
Use the rear brake with power when you get around 11 oclock to help find the ballance point then just slight power . Hold on tight with knees if it comes down hard, you don't want to come off the bike (sticky stuff on the tank helps. leather pants are good slippery pants are not as good) . I stunt in full leathers , gloves and back armor. and boots over the ancles. And helmet
Hints , relax your arms. Throttle control is what you are learing. You can't be stiff.
Never pull on the handle bars, your a fool if you think you are going to lift a 400+lb cycle with your noodle arms. What acctually happens is that you pull your own weight forward over the tank causing your wheelie to be very low if it gets off the ground at all.
Weight back arms long and relaxed.
Last tip don't look at the tach, listen for it werrrrrrrrr is about 4000, dip then snap Zrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Am I funny yet
#16
10-25-2006, 07:13 PM
RE: 1st Wheelie attempt, power On tips
right well regardless of what you think, pullin on the bars does help. your not dead lifting the full 400 lbs of the bike. your helpin the bike come up. but you were right about the keepin the arms long and straight part. but i like to pull gets you to bp faster. and yes use the clutch , i dont recomend using the clutch when you are just learning but if you can do a wheelie then start learning the clutch. most people are scared to flip it over backwards, so they dont try the clutch . but when you can lift it, start screwing with the clutch... and i was talking about doing it in 2nd when i was saying pull on the bars, in first you dont need to do it. just quit being a sissy and clutch it up!
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