Thanks to dannoxyz for the tip on the recommended series R/R upgrade (as opposed to a shunt circuit). 😉👍

I've looked into it and decided that the wiring modifications and incompatible size of the R/R is a little out of my league for tackling as a DIY project, which considering my finances and $6/gallon gasoline here in L.A. is about all I can afford to do these days. 😞

 

Decided to watch some YouTube videos and run some multimeter tests again this morning before draining the oil and replacing the stator on the F3.

Checked continuity to ground on all 3-phase wires @ the stator connector; results: passed (all OL).

Checked resistance (impedance ) on all 3-phase wires @ the stator connector; results: Pass (.2+ ohms on each).

Conclusion: the stator is good(?)

Also conducted forward/reverse bias tests on the R/R one more time just to be sure of its condition and it passed (~.48v for each phase circuit).

Changed the battery out with a brand new one with 12.45v nominal going in. Started the bike and @ 3,000 RPM the voltage was 14.0. At idle the voltage dropped to 12.6, then 12.5...4,3,2,1, and when the fan kicked on the voltage dropped to 11.8 and I shut the bike down.

What is going on? 🤔

 

At low-RPMs, stators typically don't put out enough voltage to keep battery fully-charged up. Note at idle, charging system is only sending 12.6v to battery? not enough to re-charge battery because battery is being drained to run bike's electronics. Thus dropping voltage at idle.

Then at higher-RPMs, 3000rpms, it sends out 14.0v. Which is still slightly low, should be around 14.5v.


Anyway,

1. run bike above 3000rpms for about 5-min, then shut it down.
2. immediately measure battery voltage, volts = ???
3. wait about 3-hrs, measure battery voltage, volts = ???
4. wait another 3-hrs, measure battery voltage, volts = ???

Do this parasitic-drain test, you may have something draining battery just sitting around.