well i didnt know where to put this, but im a newbie (u might have seen my other post with pics of my f3)

anyways, i went over to the rents house sun night and did an oil and oil filter change and went to dinner for my mom's birthday and then was heading back home on i-95 N cruising at about 80mph and all was fine and dandy till my throttle just stops making the bike move and it dies and i have to coast to the shoulder.

man that sucked. i got my dad to come and pickup truck me back to his place. the next day i check out the battery and it turns out that it was a little low. the battery is brand new (the previous owner put it in when i bought it) so maybe it just needed to be charged fully? anywys i charged it up for a few hours and the bikeruns again but now my dad is saying how my bike isnt running right because the header pipes all have different temps and it sounds like it isnt running right. so now i gotta take off the tank and check compression, ignition, fuel & carbs ...arg...part of me is glad cause i wanted to check and clean carbs and get it running really well but part of me is also annoyed by issues of an older bike.

anyways just wanted to rant to make myself feel better. i cant wait to be riding it again.

-Jason

 

It wouldn't hurt to see if your bike is charging the battery. It doesn't start charging till the RPM's are at 5k. The voltage reading should be 13.0 V to 15.5 V. Anyway, it is just a thought in regards to the dead battery. I am having the exact same issue and it is because I have something in the charging system not working (Battery, Alternator, or Regulator/Rectifier). As I am crusing along, the bike dies. When I try to restart, the battery is dead.

 

Sup, I have a 95 model f3. The problem I'm experiencing is that the bike is losing battery voltage till cuts off. I can run it for about ten to twelve miles before it cuts off. Well this is not a new problem. It all started back in June. I ran out of battery and I thought that it was the battery and replaced it. Then it broke down again so after trial and error I changed the rectifier/regulator. The bike worked fine for two weeks and started again. From advice and diagnostics from a friend we narrowed down the problem to the stator. OK. Cool then.... After changing the stator I noticed the stator plug burnt. Cool maybe that stator wasn't even bad. So given I had already bought a new one so might as well install it right. Cool. Well I rode for about a week. Then the same **** happened again. I lost battery voltage. So now I really don't know what is going on because I basically replaced the whole charging system right? Well that is my question guys. What am I doing wrong with this. I'm going crazy.. Please help

 

It sounds like you've been having a very similar problem as what I have with my F3. It's an ongoing problem that has become very frustrating, but many electrical issues are that way. When I bought my F3 it had a burned stator and the battery died as soon as I got the bike home. I changed the stator out with a brand new Caltric and had no issues for two years, even with consistent 100+mph riding, but the new one (also Caltric) apparently lasted less than 100-miles and left me stranded with a nice towing charge. Considering the bike ran for two years with no charging issues, multimeter tests on the R/R indicate that it's functioning relatively well (positive/negative bias readings), yet voltage drops below 11.5v at the battery when idling, I have generally concluded that the stator is indeed the issue. I am intrigued regarding the thermal protection theory posted above, though. I'd like to know more about that. 🤔

The charging hiccup is still a work in progress, but my mechanic, members here at the forum, and my tow guy all advised me to buy ONLY an OEM or Rick's Motorsports stator as a replacement. At first I didn't want to listen, but I've since changed my position. Tomorrow I am installing a Rick's Motorsports stator and will run some diagnostics to see if there's a difference in the readings, and hopefully a 100+mph test ride to dust the cobwebs out. 🤪👍

 

Problem is shunt-circuit RR will drive any rotor at 100% full-time. It'll bleed off enough power to recharge battery/run bike and dump rest to ground. This generates LOTS of heat in stator and RR itself. Solution is to use modern series-circuit RR that only drives rotor as much as needed.

https://www.600rr.net/threads/stator...ng-out.587484/