When I got my bike my BIL put it on a car charger as it cranked slow. It did and still does to this day. In fact, when push starting, the bike fires right up, so I know the fuel and ignition is working great. Just doesn't fire with the slow cranking.

Anyway, last week I left the bike unridden outside for like 3 or 4 days and the battery was dead enough so that it wouldn't even crank. Push started it and it's slowly been getting better again. Rode on Friday and Saturday, but this morning it would barely crank. I have realized that the battery is probably shot. I also have a GSXR R/R that I bought from eBay but have not yet installed.

If you had a bad or drained battery and a replacementR/R in your posession, would you install both at once and figure that all problems are solved, or would you do one and see if it gets better before doing the other so that you could figure out where the problem was?

I'm leaning toward doing both at once so that I won't ruin good with bad, but wanted to get a differing opinion if there is one.

Also, I'm looking at one of the maintenance free GSM batteries for like $60 delivered. What do you guys all use? (120cca)

Mike

 

I would do both if you bought both install both. Then you will know its not you R/Rand not yourbattery. Just seemsweird to buy new stuff and not change them both at once, plusthey are both super easy "projects" if you can even call them that.

P.S. I had bascially the same exact problem and I changed my R/R with a new one from eBay, charged my battery andhaven't had a problem since. (about 150 miles later).

Maybe try just the R/R before you buy a battery.

 

I would not do either yet. I would run tests on the electrical system to find out if there is the proper resistence to the stator and rectifier. Not only will this accurately diagnose which part is malfunctioning, you may find that it is only a connector that could be bad. On the 929, the static resistence on the rectifier is between. 0.4 and 1.0 ~ohms. At 5k or above, your battery should be reading close to 14.0 +/- volts. Doesn't matter how bad the battery is dead, you can still charge to full, start the bike, and run it long enough to do the above test. This confirms whether or not your stator is charging the system. Try getting a multi-meter and checking for resistence before you change the parts. If you do know how to do this, then great. If not, there's a good starting point.

I mention this because I had a similar problem with my 929 and the culprit was the stator. The battery would do fine for a little bit, but once the stator got really warm, you could feel the bike surging. I took the stator out and found some burned out sections on it. Good luck on your endeavor, I hate eletrical gremlins, but they're not that bad once you find the issue.

 

I would sell that f2 to me asap.

J/K... Gotta agree with Illushun, I had dead battery, dying engine problems with my old f2 and the first thing I did was run out and buy a new battery.

Then that died and I rushed out and got a new regulator/rect....when that died I got a new stator....when that died I finally got the entire electrical/charging system tested by Honda.

Turns out my stator was bad, and slowly frying my regulator/rect andaffecting my battery.

 

MT, so the new stator you put in there was also bad? Just wondering as that is how it reads.

Illushun, thanks for the tip. I have all the tools and a really good multimeter, just never thought of the stator. I believe it should be an easy check, but will see what I can get to easily since I no longer have a garage at a house that I can really tear into stuff. May turn out that I doa basic test and if something seems wrong, I take it to the shop. Either way, I am doing the regulator and the battery won't hardly even crank the cycle now. (as of this morning) Once running the bike is fine, but it cranks so slow that I think the battery has a dead cell. (at 12.8v when sitting. Don't know about running, but I can check that in a few hours when I head out for lunch)

 

I agree withIllushan, Do it right the first time.

 

I just tested with my voltmeter at the terminals and at idle I got 12.8 didn't go upuntil I got over 2k and even then it was low 13v.As I headed toward 5k prm I got 13.8 and as I let of the gas coming down from 5k I got about 14.1. I think that's on the low end of what it should be. At throttle it never went to 14v, only when I let off the gas and the rpms were dropping. I didn't get a chance to check the stator wires, but at least I know the R/R is putting something out and not overcharging. I still think it should be putting out more voltage at low end. and a tad more at 5k rpm. I'm going to replace the battery for sure. There is no way it should have drained like it did and does each night unless there is a short somewhere and there are no fuses blown and everything works as it should. I guess I could confirm by undoing the neg terminal at night and see how it reacts in the AM.

Either way a new battery is on it's way and I'm replacing the old R/R with the nice aluminum finned one.

Oh, when I checked the battery a week or so ago before it drained it was 12.8 with bike off. Didn't get a chance to test with bike running so I can't compare. I did check the bike this time after a 20 mile ride and engine nice and warm.

 

Mike

Yeah the stator was also bad if I remember right.

Another thing I forgot to tell you guys, the Honda guy told me if I had tried to do the job myself I still might have had problems...because I would also have needed to change the wiring harness that connects the r/r to the stator...etc.

That's a key part that can affect the charging system, at least that's what he told me. After that my charging problems were gone.