Hello all you fellow CBR fanatics out there in Forumland! Hope all of you and your machines are doing well.👋😀

Since my last communication, my '97 600F3 has been running well and establishing itself in the hierarchy of L.A. freeway sp

ortbikes - at the top of the food chain, of course! 🤪 Anyway, an issue came up a few days ago that I would really appreciate some expert assistance with, or even just some hypothetical causes and solutions that might lead me in the right direction.

Last week I was running the bike in the valley about 115mph on the 101, and exited to get me a cheeseburger and a milkshake. When I was finished, I tried to restart the bike but the battery was playing dead. Had the bike towed to the house, put a multimeter on it with the engine running, and the voltage was swinging wildly between 14.5v and 16.7v. When I rev'd it to 3k RPM, the voltage was jumping all the way into the 19v range. Upon cutoff the battery wouldn't drop below 15v (resting), but when I tried to start the bike it would barely crank.

So, I did the obvious and dialectic greased the connectors, ordered a new voltage regulator (rectifier) and a brand new battery, but when I connected them up and started the bike, the exact same issue plagued the system (swinging wildly between 14.5v and 16.7v, 15v+ resting battery, dead when I tried to restart). To save time, yes, I ordered the Chinese replacement components (not the cheapest), but the rectifier is brand new and matches the one it replaced that ran on the bike fine for two years (100mph+ almost daily), and it seems pretty unlikely that I would have the EXACT same voltage readings and symptoms if that were the problem. I'm leaning towards an issue with the stator, but my mechanic says that's not likely since it's still producing measurable charging voltage.

​​​​​​Any solutions, ideas, hypotheticals? 🤔

 

Couple possibilities. You'll need measure more places and numbers will tell you exactly what's wrong and how to fix it. Most likely you replaced broken RR with bad RR. So many aftermarket parts are bad right out of box and needs to be tested to confirm functionally before using.

1. test stator: follow "The Drill" guide to troubleshooting stator to verify it's operational. Most likely OK, but we want to see actual numbers you measured here.

2. replace RR. Usually I recommend buying ONLY factory OEM electronic parts from authorised Honda dealer. But this is where tech advancements have created better than factory parts: https://www.600rr.net/threads/stator...ng-out.587484/

 

Thanks for the tips. I'll get out the multimeter again and get started! 😉👍

 

That's an awesome looking bike!!

 

"For me, I would rather look good than feel good...and you look marvelous." - Fernando's Hideaway; played by Billy Crystal, Saturday Night Live

 

I recently had that charging hiccup that disabled the bike for three weeks. Ironically, the overcharging problem I thought was the primary cause turned out to be a case of an internally burned multimeter giving faulty information. 🙄 Replaced the multimeter with a brand new one and was immediately able to determine that the stator was bad. Replaced that unit with a brand new one and the bike is back on L.A. freeways at high speed! For now...




Thanks to the CBR Forum members who chimed in. Keep on riding!!! 😎

 

Woohoo, good job!

 

Ummmm, yeah. 🫤 The new stator (Caltric) lasted less than 100-miles and burned out (120mph riding aside). I humbly acknowledge my stubbornness and defense of the cheaper parts when my mechanic, members here at the forum, and my towing guy all advised me to get OEM or Rick's. 😞

A brand new Rick's stator is on the way and I'll do the swap again. 😁

 

Problem is actually with shunt-circuit RR that drives stator at 100% full-time. Way to improve is with series-circuit that only draws as much power as needed to drive bike's electronics. Will run so much cooler, you can actually touch RR after ride and not get burnt!


https://www.600rr.net/threads/stator...ng-out.587484/

 

Does anybody know what the acceptable multimeter diode readings (tolerance ranges) should be when conducting the forward (positive) bias test for a '97 600F3 R/R?

The R/R currently installed is reading in the 510-530 range (positive) with zero negative bias across all three phases, but a brand new one is reading 470-485 (also zero negative).