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Wheel Alignment - done at home

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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:55 AM
  #2  
bluebeard's Avatar
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From: Adelaide South Australia
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Very simple set of instructions, especially with the drawings. You're right. First time allow a couple of hours because It takes a bit to work cause & effect. The marks on the swing arm are only a guide. They are never accurate. I tend to use a builders string line around the rear tyre & attached to heavy garden chairs. That way I can have the string really tight & it's easily adjusted as I work.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 01:35 PM
  #3  
Sprock's Avatar
Administrator, MVN / ROTM NOV 2012
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From: Republic of Boon Island
Talking In Maine ............wood works best lol

Well I use 2x 2foot pieces of 2 x 1 wood on the rear wheel
and shim out with 2x 6 foot pieces of straight lumber up to
the front wheel and the as you said adjust so the front sits
dead center and equidistant between the two 6 foot pieces
of wood.

Just a fast and simple approach that works for me....takes
30 seconds and the center stand is not an issue.

Kinda got the lumber thing going on here in Maine ...lol
 
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 10:36 PM
  #4  
kilgoretrout's Avatar
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From: PA, USA
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Great write-up, steve. I'm sure this will come in handy...
 
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 11:27 PM
  #5  
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My 1990 CBR has the stock exhaust, which makes it impossible to get a direct measurement between the rear axle and swingarm pivot bolt. I made a caliper. I used a straight rod and a pair of right-angle clamps I got from the internet. I used a long nail in each clamp to space the rod away from the exhaust pipe. I center-punched the swingarm pivot bolt and placed one nail on it. I adjusted the other right-angle clamp so the nail is exactly in the center of the rear axle. I tightened the clamps and brought it to the other side of the bike. When the chain tension is correct and both sides are exactly equal, the rear axle and swingarm pivot bolt are exactly parallel. I also use this on my 1979 Suzuki GS1000, and I can take both hands off the handlebar at speed. This picture shows the rod, right-angle clamp, and the long nail on the center of the swingarm pivot bolt.

By noworries1, shot with Canon PowerShot A510 at 2008-11-04
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 06:51 PM
  #6  
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good info
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 12:48 PM
  #7  
HenryM's Avatar
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From: Kent, UK
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Excellent write up Stev-o.
I'll be using this as reference.
Slowpoke, I love your ingenuity. Nice tool.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #8  
robbiebgraham's Avatar
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From: Waitahanui, New Zealand
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Did mine the other day with string and boy it was way out. I wrapped the string around the rear of the back tyre and pulled it along both sides through the main stand and around the front of the front tyre. I used two small blocks of 16MM MDF blocks as spacers between the string (on the front)and the tyre to push the the string out to the same width as the back. I then measured the gap either side on the rear of the front tyre. This worked a treat. My tyres are standard for a 87 and 16mm either side make the front as wide as the back.
Bit of mucking around but worth it.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 03:24 PM
  #9  
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I'm a bit puzzled. The accuracy seems to depend on getting the bars straight to begin with. How do you know they're straight? They might look straight, but still be off?

Craig
 
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 07:10 AM
  #10  
cookml22's Avatar
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From: pine bluff arkansas
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Craigart,
If you use string and go from bar end to the gas cap on both sides it should give you the measurement to tell if your wheel is straight

Edit to my post fork top to gas tank I'm both sides then bar end to bar end to
 

Last edited by 74demon; Feb 27, 2013 at 09:16 AM. Reason: merged posts
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