Bleeding steps are as follows;

loosen the orifice bolt by backing it out against the snap ring and then stop.

using the lever:
bleed the right front caliper from the upper bleed valve.
bleed the left front caliper from the upper bleed valve.

using the pedal:
bleed the front right caliper from the lower valve.
bleed the front left caliper from the lower valve.
bleed the rear caliper from the lower bleed valve
bleed the rear caliper form the upper bleed valve.

tighten the orifice bolt. Do not over tighten it.

Note: You need to keep adding fluid to the reservoir or it will run dry. If this happens you start all over.

 

Thanks for that!

 

Good stuff. Looking in this forum for information on swapping out [front] steel braided lines on the 1000F (93). I'm interested how/whether this would have any affect on the PCV pressure distribution?

Even with a fresh bleed and new EBC H2/sintered pads, the front lever is mushier than I'd like, esp. compared to the CBR1100xx.

Any/all input appreciated.

 

hmmm TimBucTwo unlinked as in split his - that's where I'm headed with mine on my
93

SS braided should make them feel more "solid" less squishy

 

I have HEL braided lines on my 89 and for what its worth I wouldn't be without them on that bike. I also have a Blackbird and the brakes are worlds apart on both bikes. The braided lines on the 1000F are essential imo. The brakes are old technology and generally have old bits and pieces in them. The braided lines dont make them as good as the BB but they certainly make them better than the standard rubber lines.

 

What process would a man have to take to split the brake setup? Running a '96 cbr1000f

 

Welcome to the forum and good question.

Look at this LINK.

I need to get up to Sprock's place so we can do a de-link 'how to'.

 

Refreshments offered - well and truly after the work is done

 

I don't hae the joined braking system but I have hit on a massive problem today,,,,,,ive stripped down regreased and reaseambled my front brake like I have on loads of bikes before but it will just not work at all,,,,,,,,bleeding n/s to o/s pumping the fluid through and the fluid trickles through at best and there isn't enough pressure to move the pistons,,although there is no leaks of air or fluid????? im totally stumped its doing my head in ,,ive put my hand over joint front the cylinder to the pipe and there is enough pressure from there to push past my finger when its pressed tight,,the brakes did work but they had a judder that's why I have stripped and greased up etc,,its as if theres a blockage in a pipe but like I say they worked before??????? I found the problem of the judder the caliper carriers were solid on 1 arm but other than that I havnt changed or set anything up differently.

 

I had the squishy rear brake problem last season, I had to "double tap" the rear brake to get it to work. I read about horror stories so I was hesitant to do it then until I mustered up enough courage to bleed and flush the system for this season. I used the PDF service manual and followed the instructions, I did not use a vacuum pump. Mind you I do have experience manually bleeding brakes, the two person method (working at an auto shop). Luckily, I could do the two person method with just myself since I have long enough arms to man both jobs. For the Left Side front caliper, I had to lay down and reach under/through the bike to man this bleeder wrench. You could do it with another person, but it may be better doing it yourself because you're gonna have to be in sync.

I used one 12 oz bottle of fluid to complete the job, flushing all lines of old fluid (down to the last drop filling the rear reservoir).

I didn't find any air, until the last bleeder screw; it started foaming mid way through...lots of foam and you could hear it "fizzing" inside. I just kept bleeding until straight clear fluid. The others ones, you can note a change in color of the fluid, or just do bleed until the master reservoir needs a refill for each side.



What I did for those researching doing this -

Tools:
- Box end wrench, and 6-point socket to break bleeders loose first
- Clear plastic tube that fits over bleeder nipple and isn't loose (2.5ft, 0.75m long), catch container
- Mechanics wire, to secure the plastic tube in place (ductape?)


1) Start with the front per manual instructions; with the bike on the center-stand or other stand, **** the wheel fully left so the front master cylinder is nearly even with the earth and open it (you may need to crack the screws loose with the proper sized driver first, then use a stubby phillips while the wheel is turned). Suck out all the old fluid, can absorb with a clean lint-free towel, baster, or diy eductor-jet pump using pressurized air. Fill it up with new fluid.

***Don't forget to back out the "screw thingy" on the front fork; I purposely didn't detail this essential step to force you to look in the manual, page 13-25


2) After breaking the correct bleeder screw loose (see picture in manual), orient the wrench so it has room to loosen and tighten, because you're going to be loosening and tightening many times; so put it in a accessible spot that is easy for your hand to manipulate and allows the bleeder to fully close without the wrench hitting something. Attach your clear hose with the wire/tape against the stock brake lines to secure it from popping off, because your hands are going to be full.


3) The next steps, the actual manual bleeding part, is key essential but doable by anyone who can do two things at once and keep them in synchronization. You have to keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir throughout this, the rear especially important you never let it get empty, never ever never (if you do, buy another bottle of brake fluid and flush everything again from the very beginning).

A) Pump up the front brakes 3-5 times
B) On the last pump hold pressure, and expect the lever to drop, so maintain this pressure
C) Quick snap the bleeder open then closed, start with small quick movements
D) After each quick snap of the bleeder open/closed, you must go back to step A)

Quick snap explained:
Imagine the front brake lever has a range of motion while bleeding, so when you open the bleeder the lever moves in toward the grip. Lets quantify the range 0-10:
-10 being fully away from the grip (bleeder closed, you just pumped it up and holding pressure)
-5 is midway
-0 touching the grip

You never want to get to 0 before closing the bleeder. You should actually aim for 3...example you're at 10 maintaining pressure, you quickly open/close the bleeder, when the bleeder is closed you should be sitting at 3 while STILL maintaining pressure. If the bleeder screw were in a pub drinking, you are that mindful bartender cutting him off before he's even drunk.

Do not get impatient, just deal with it...you're not going to gain much by fully stroking out the brake lever, only gaining air if anything. You need to maintain pressure on the lever always until you check with your brain: "is the bleeder tight" before releasing the lever.


This is exactly the same with the rear brake pedal, you treat it like the front brake lever in regards to the range of motion and not bottoming out the pedal when you open/close the bleeders.

Godspeed