Brake bleeding issues, Linked brake model.
Hi all, I have just completed a full brake overhaul on my '94 1000FR, removed all 3 brake calipers, disassembled the components (except the pistons which I left alone) fully cleaned them and refitted everything with genuine honda pads, I refitted the Banjo bolts with brand new copper washers, and torqued them up to 30ft/lb (Honda say 25)
I have adhered to the bleeding sequence
Front right caliper upper bleed screw, front hand brake lever/master cyl
Front left caliper upper bleed screw, front hand brake lever/master cyl
Front right caliper lower bleed screw, rear foot brake lever/master cyl
Front left caliper lower bleed screw, rear foot brake lever/master cyl
Rear caliper rearmost bleed screw, rear foot brake lever/master cyl
Rear caliper foremost bleed screw, secondary master cyl fork leg & rear footbrake reservoir.
I succesfully bled each bleed screw as above, but upon double checking by repeating the procedure the following day to ensure any accumulation of small air bubbles, had been expelled, I encountered far more air out of each bleed screw than I ever expected to see......
I have once again today repeated the procedure and at every bleed screw there is five full strokes of large bubbles (but no small tapering quantity of decreasing bubbles) from each individual bleed screw, which is repeated every time I repeat the process.
I can observe no fluid leakes anywhere.....
anyone have any clues or similar experiences, I'm starting to run out of ideas.......
Best wishes
John
I have adhered to the bleeding sequence
Front right caliper upper bleed screw, front hand brake lever/master cyl
Front left caliper upper bleed screw, front hand brake lever/master cyl
Front right caliper lower bleed screw, rear foot brake lever/master cyl
Front left caliper lower bleed screw, rear foot brake lever/master cyl
Rear caliper rearmost bleed screw, rear foot brake lever/master cyl
Rear caliper foremost bleed screw, secondary master cyl fork leg & rear footbrake reservoir.
I succesfully bled each bleed screw as above, but upon double checking by repeating the procedure the following day to ensure any accumulation of small air bubbles, had been expelled, I encountered far more air out of each bleed screw than I ever expected to see......
I have once again today repeated the procedure and at every bleed screw there is five full strokes of large bubbles (but no small tapering quantity of decreasing bubbles) from each individual bleed screw, which is repeated every time I repeat the process.
I can observe no fluid leakes anywhere.....
anyone have any clues or similar experiences, I'm starting to run out of ideas.......
Best wishes
John
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I have not got the combined brakes thank god ....but mate , if you are getting air out of them , there still must be air in them ..
I think you just need to keep doing them until its all out ...
Are you making sure that when pulling the lever that you close the bleed points before you let the lever go each time ?
Have you got a firm feel at the lever yet at all , or is it still spongy ?
Are you using a power bleeder ? or doing it all with the lever ?
Are you making sure that when pulling the lever that you close the bleed points before you let the lever go each time ?
Have you got a firm feel at the lever yet at all , or is it still spongy ?
Are you using a power bleeder ? or doing it all with the lever ?
Last edited by CBRclassic; Oct 25, 2009 at 03:18 PM.
Hey there Black , sorry to hear about your troubles.
'Fraid I don't have the linked system either , but I did do my brakes recently and it took forever to get any pressure in the system.
When you crack the bleed screw , I find you've just got to crack it by the slightest amount , otherwise air feeds back into the system almost immediately . Once your getting some feel at the leaver it's not so bad , but you've still gotta be quick .
Alternatively you could try something like this
Kilgore Trout has the later model with linked brakes and may be able to shed more light on the subject for you I hope.
'Fraid I don't have the linked system either , but I did do my brakes recently and it took forever to get any pressure in the system.
When you crack the bleed screw , I find you've just got to crack it by the slightest amount , otherwise air feeds back into the system almost immediately . Once your getting some feel at the leaver it's not so bad , but you've still gotta be quick .
Alternatively you could try something like this
Kilgore Trout has the later model with linked brakes and may be able to shed more light on the subject for you I hope.
Thanks for the suggestions fella's, I had managed to obtain a good pressure at both the levers (and the secondary front master cylinder)
I'll have another session next weekend when it's light again, and pay particular attention to the slight opening of the bleed screws, so as not to let any more air in.....
thanks for the Ebay link Hawkwind, I've decided to invest in one, for a tenner it's got to be worth a look, I've spent more than that on DOT4 already.....just gotta hope the postal strike sorts its self out quickly now
Best wishes.
John
I'll have another session next weekend when it's light again, and pay particular attention to the slight opening of the bleed screws, so as not to let any more air in.....
thanks for the Ebay link Hawkwind, I've decided to invest in one, for a tenner it's got to be worth a look, I've spent more than that on DOT4 already.....just gotta hope the postal strike sorts its self out quickly now
Best wishes.
John
Plenty of previous history on this problem - check history.
There is a specific sequence for bleeding the brakes on linked brake models I think..........................
There is a specific sequence for bleeding the brakes on linked brake models I think..........................
There are some tips in the search.
However, I think the sequence he used is the correct one. Sounds right.
But with all brake systems, they can be a PITA. Hawk is right on with air coming back through the bleeders. That's why the check valve bleeders help.
You could also have some air that's slowly coming out of the calipers, too, if you got any in them.
I'd smack and shake stuff and keep bleeding it. Vac systems help, too.
However, I think the sequence he used is the correct one. Sounds right.
But with all brake systems, they can be a PITA. Hawk is right on with air coming back through the bleeders. That's why the check valve bleeders help.
You could also have some air that's slowly coming out of the calipers, too, if you got any in them.
I'd smack and shake stuff and keep bleeding it. Vac systems help, too.
Yep two people and a vac is a good way to go at it. You seem to be doing it in the
right order though............But I too am lucky too.......mines not a linked system
either thankfully.
right order though............But I too am lucky too.......mines not a linked system
either thankfully.
Try this - Bicklebok had some real issues....!
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f-hurricane-38/continued-braking-problems-93-model-81289/
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f-hurricane-38/continued-braking-problems-93-model-81289/
I have wrestled with mine quite a bit (about a gallon of brake fluid! LOL)so I may be able to offer some insight. Did you open the orifice bolt on the front forks when bleeding? I forgot which calipers you have to do it for but I think its for but I can look in the manual. Didnt see wheere you mentioned that in your post.
I ended up putting teflon tape on my bleeder screw threads and putting a vacuum pump on it. I think it can be done without it, but were a B to bleed!
I ended up putting teflon tape on my bleeder screw threads and putting a vacuum pump on it. I think it can be done without it, but were a B to bleed!


