Brake de-link help
I've bought a set of front brakes off eBay so I can do the project and still have my bike ridable. I could use a little help. Did anyone make a template of the plates used to replace the secondary master cylinder on the left side? I don't have the tools to make my own so I'll need to find someone in town to make them for me.
I figure that I can convert the calipers I bought and replace the linked brakes if I need to or want to sell the bike I can't imagine selling though.
I figure that I can convert the calipers I bought and replace the linked brakes if I need to or want to sell the bike I can't imagine selling though.
Did you buy calipers from the same year of manufacture as your bike ? If they're from a 92 or earlier, I don't think they'll fit- the mounting points on the front are different.........[X(]
It's a big project.....good luck
It's a big project.....good luck

I have a 93 and the calipers are from a 95 so they're interchangeable. They came with all the hoses. I just didn't want to screw up the original calipers.
I haven't done any brake work on the bike so I haven't had to bleed them. I do have the Honda factory manual.
Is it really a big project? The description of it seems pretty straightforward. The only thing I wish I had is compressed air to blow out the calipers after drilling through the chambers.
Is it really a big project? The description of it seems pretty straightforward. The only thing I wish I had is compressed air to blow out the calipers after drilling through the chambers.
I would have sold my bike if I could not have de-linked it. I hate the LBS.
It is a simple process. You really don't want to go back to linked once you de-link. I don't think de-linking would detour a buyer. To me it is a big plus.
Look at the attached picture. I made two simple brackets from some thin aluminum flat stock I got at Home Depot. Save all of you fasteners and use them as I did.
I flew to Green Bay today and I am a long way from home so I can't help as much as I would like. I have all the parts and part numbers needed to do what I did to de-link at home. I also would have made you some brackets or traced mine.
The first step is to remove all brake lines, hoses, calipers and valves. All you should have is the master cylinder on the clip-on.
Make ready the calipers (I take it that you have read the thread on de-linking and have seen the pictures).
Make the brackets by drawing the outline on the aluminum stock and then hack sawing the ruff shape. Finish the bracket with a coarse flat and rounded file. It only takes 1/2 hour per bracket to make. I used large aluminum washers and cable crimps that I got from Home Depot.
In the photo you can see the cable crimps that I drilled out to 5/16". I think I sawed the cable crimps to 3/8" thickness but I can't remember for sure what thickness they are. The S.S. lines are direct order off of a 1990(that year is not linked).
There is no special bleeding when de-linked, you will however need to get the air out of the lower bleeds before doing the tops.
It is a simple process. You really don't want to go back to linked once you de-link. I don't think de-linking would detour a buyer. To me it is a big plus.
Look at the attached picture. I made two simple brackets from some thin aluminum flat stock I got at Home Depot. Save all of you fasteners and use them as I did.
I flew to Green Bay today and I am a long way from home so I can't help as much as I would like. I have all the parts and part numbers needed to do what I did to de-link at home. I also would have made you some brackets or traced mine.
The first step is to remove all brake lines, hoses, calipers and valves. All you should have is the master cylinder on the clip-on.
Make ready the calipers (I take it that you have read the thread on de-linking and have seen the pictures).
Make the brackets by drawing the outline on the aluminum stock and then hack sawing the ruff shape. Finish the bracket with a coarse flat and rounded file. It only takes 1/2 hour per bracket to make. I used large aluminum washers and cable crimps that I got from Home Depot.
In the photo you can see the cable crimps that I drilled out to 5/16". I think I sawed the cable crimps to 3/8" thickness but I can't remember for sure what thickness they are. The S.S. lines are direct order off of a 1990(that year is not linked).
There is no special bleeding when de-linked, you will however need to get the air out of the lower bleeds before doing the tops.
In the photo above you can see that I used the factory bolts up top. Below I used a bolt that is the same diameter as the factory bolt or what ever was passing through the caliper. I could not find a 8mm bolt the correct length.
Re-cap on the photo, first you see the bracket then the cable crimp, the washer and then the caliper. On the other side of the caliper would be the washer, cable crimp, bracket, lock washer and nut.
The cable crimp is just a spacer that I built. It was the easiest thing to do to get the proper spacing. I wish I were home to measure it. I cut it to length and then opened the hole up to take the bolt.
Re-cap on the photo, first you see the bracket then the cable crimp, the washer and then the caliper. On the other side of the caliper would be the washer, cable crimp, bracket, lock washer and nut.
The cable crimp is just a spacer that I built. It was the easiest thing to do to get the proper spacing. I wish I were home to measure it. I cut it to length and then opened the hole up to take the bolt.
I read the posted process several times and the calipers seem pretty straightforward. I have a hacksaw and files so I should be able to make brackets like you did. The only thing I'm not sure about is the spacing of the holes for the top caliper bolt, which is the whole point to make brackets.
Another reason I want to de-link is so I can use SS lines. It should make a big difference replacing 15 year old rubber hoses and cutting down the line length.
Another reason I want to de-link is so I can use SS lines. It should make a big difference replacing 15 year old rubber hoses and cutting down the line length.
Once you make the far side bracket (you can make a template from cardboard first if you like), hold it up to he far side fork leg and position it where you want it to be and scribe the holes with a pin or needle or any thing else that works by inserting the scriber through the fork leg bolt holes. When you get the two top holes where you want them, bolt the bracket in place and mount the caliper at the bottom and scribe the bottom hole in the bracket. Use this bracket as a pattern to make the near side bracket.
There are Companies on the net that will supply SS lines for the linked brake bike.
E-Bay UK is the place to look.
I'll have a scout around and see what I can find - maybe save you some trouble !
E-Bay UK is the place to look.
I'll have a scout around and see what I can find - maybe save you some trouble !



