UPDATE: It has been just over 3 years since I first rebuilt my forks with new bushings, seals and stiffer fork springs. One year later I added gold valves from Racetech. The pictures below show my old bushings compared to new from the first of this post. The other picture is my current bushings after 3+ yrs and 10k+ miles. The fork oil is just over 2 years old and well it speaks for itself. Very dirty and needed to be changed. For anyone still riding around on bone stock forks that have never been serviced I would highly recommend getting them done with new bushings, seals and fork oil asap.

I am currently rebuilding my forks again with new fork & dust seals, removing the stiffer springs in favor of the softer stock springs for drag racing use and new fork oil. After seeing how bad the fork oil looks after only 2 years I will be changing the fork oil every year now.

 

As my photo shows, I completed the step :
"Now using the open end of a 3/4in wrench you should easily be able to remove the lock nut on the top of the fork cap."
Next should be " Remove your 15mm wrench. Now turn the fork cap counterclockwise until it stops then lift up. It should come off the damper."
But if you remove 15mm wrench before turning the fork cap, fork cap and dumper turns together. I also turned the fork cap keeping the damper locked with 15mm wrench and turn the fork cap counterclockwise (and clock wise as well) till it stops but the fork cap did not comes off from the damper....
I want to know why. I bought my 954 recently and it had been stocked without doing any maintenance for a long time. So, it may contains any of oily sludge inside of the pipe that prevent the folk cap turn to the position which allows the cap comes off. But it seems risky to turn it too strong after it stops...
Honda service manual says the folk cap can be come off just removing the lock nut on top of the fork cap. (Pls see 13-17 of the manual)
Please tell me if how to remove the cap.