CBR 954 Fork Removal, Disassembly, Rebuild and Installation
#1
01-09-2011, 02:51 PM
CBR 954 Fork Removal, Disassembly, Rebuild and Installation
Fork Removal:
1. Front wheel: Remove brake calipers(12mm) and tie them to your front stand to keep them from just hanging with tension on the brake lines. Loosen right pinch bolts(12mm), remove axle nut(22mm), remove left pinch bolts(12mm). Remove axle and front wheel.
2. Remove nuts holding brake line brackets(10mm) to front fender. Remove 4 bolts that mount fender to forks and remove the front fender.
3. Remove one 8mm bolt holding clutch lever to clip-on so you can rotate it for better access to upper triple clamp bolt and remove (2) 8mm bolts holding front brake handle to clip-on for better access on right side.
4. Loosen the upper triple clamp bolt on each side. Using a 32mm wrench or socket loosen the fork cap.
5. Loosen the bolt holding each clip-on to the fork. This only leaves the 2 lower bolts holding the fork in place.
6. Using a 12mm socket loosen the 2 bolts on the lower triple clamp. Be ready because the fork will slide out as soon as you loosen the last bolt.
7. Slide the fork down out of the triple clamps and off the bike.
8. You are now ready to disassemble the fork.
1. Front wheel: Remove brake calipers(12mm) and tie them to your front stand to keep them from just hanging with tension on the brake lines. Loosen right pinch bolts(12mm), remove axle nut(22mm), remove left pinch bolts(12mm). Remove axle and front wheel.
2. Remove nuts holding brake line brackets(10mm) to front fender. Remove 4 bolts that mount fender to forks and remove the front fender.
3. Remove one 8mm bolt holding clutch lever to clip-on so you can rotate it for better access to upper triple clamp bolt and remove (2) 8mm bolts holding front brake handle to clip-on for better access on right side.
4. Loosen the upper triple clamp bolt on each side. Using a 32mm wrench or socket loosen the fork cap.
5. Loosen the bolt holding each clip-on to the fork. This only leaves the 2 lower bolts holding the fork in place.
6. Using a 12mm socket loosen the 2 bolts on the lower triple clamp. Be ready because the fork will slide out as soon as you loosen the last bolt.
7. Slide the fork down out of the triple clamps and off the bike.
8. You are now ready to disassemble the fork.
Last edited by backdoc; 01-09-2011 at 03:04 PM.
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makoba (09-06-2022)
#2
01-09-2011, 02:53 PM
CBR 954 Fork Disassembly: Remove all rebound, compression and preload by turning all adjusters counter clockwise until they stop. Write down your settings.
1. Remove the handlebar stopper ring by hand. Using a small screwdriver or sharp pointed tool remove the clip on the top of each fork holding the preload adjuster cap on the fork. Put these aside for now.
1. Remove the handlebar stopper ring by hand. Using a small screwdriver or sharp pointed tool remove the clip on the top of each fork holding the preload adjuster cap on the fork. Put these aside for now.
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makoba (09-06-2022)
#3
01-09-2011, 02:54 PM
Loosen the fork cap and lower the upper fork tube. Now holding the bottom with one hand and upper with your other hand turn the fork down at an angle and drain the fluid out of the fork. Be patient here and allow as much fluid as possible to drain out of the fork to keep from making a mess. Replace the fork cap and lightly tighten. (My process is different from the service manual and does not require any special tools.)
#4
01-09-2011, 02:56 PM
You will need a vise or some way of holding the lower fork tube for this step.
Place the axle holder in a vise and make sure you are using soft jaws or towels so its not metal on metal on the axle holder. You will need an extra long 8mm allen socket to remove the lower damper bolt. I used a long breaker bar with the socket and it was very easy to loosen this bolt. Remove the bolt and washer. (You need to buy a need cooper crush washer to prevent leaks after reassembly)
Be prepared for some fluid to come out after you remove the bolt. Keep the fork upside or place over your drain pan.
Place the axle holder in a vise and make sure you are using soft jaws or towels so its not metal on metal on the axle holder. You will need an extra long 8mm allen socket to remove the lower damper bolt. I used a long breaker bar with the socket and it was very easy to loosen this bolt. Remove the bolt and washer. (You need to buy a need cooper crush washer to prevent leaks after reassembly)
Be prepared for some fluid to come out after you remove the bolt. Keep the fork upside or place over your drain pan.
#5
01-09-2011, 02:57 PM
Now loosen the fork cap and remove the complete fork internals. Make sure you get the centering plate out that fits on the end of the damper. Have some towels or rags on your work area because there will be fluid in the damper that will leak everywhere. (Tip: I found that Puppy pads made for dogs are great for this type of project. Place them over your work bench and they will absorb any fluid and you toss them in the garbage when finished)
You should now have the fork tubes and the internals separated. Clean the parts with Brake Cleaner as you take them apart to keep down the mess. (Notice how dirty the parts look)
You should now have the fork tubes and the internals separated. Clean the parts with Brake Cleaner as you take them apart to keep down the mess. (Notice how dirty the parts look)
#6
01-09-2011, 02:58 PM
Now its time to remove the fork cap. Clean all the fluid and dirt you can off of the damper, fork spring, spring collar and fork cap. You will need a 15mm wrench and a 3/4in wrench for this step. If you have a spring compressor or access to one it will make this step easier but its not required. You may need a second person to help here.
Place the damper on a firm surface like a rag on the floor or top of your work bench. (Now look at pic2 of the damper without the fork cap. Your 15mm wrench goes on the body not the lock nut at the bottom.) Using a towel for grip in one hand pull down hard on the spring collar compressing the spring until you can slip your 15mm wrench on the damper. Now using the open end of a 3/4in wrench you should easily be able to remove the lock nut on the top of the fork cap. The cap will be tight on the damper. Remove your 15mm wrench. Now turn the fork cap counterclockwise until it stops then lift up. It should come off the damper. Remove the white plastic spring collar and fork spring. You are done with disassembly of the internals. Clean all parts and put them aside.
Place the damper on a firm surface like a rag on the floor or top of your work bench. (Now look at pic2 of the damper without the fork cap. Your 15mm wrench goes on the body not the lock nut at the bottom.) Using a towel for grip in one hand pull down hard on the spring collar compressing the spring until you can slip your 15mm wrench on the damper. Now using the open end of a 3/4in wrench you should easily be able to remove the lock nut on the top of the fork cap. The cap will be tight on the damper. Remove your 15mm wrench. Now turn the fork cap counterclockwise until it stops then lift up. It should come off the damper. Remove the white plastic spring collar and fork spring. You are done with disassembly of the internals. Clean all parts and put them aside.
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makoba (09-06-2022)
#7
01-09-2011, 03:01 PM
Now we are ready to separate the fork tubes. Using a small screwdriver loosen the dust cap and slide it down the tube for now. Using the same small screwdriver pop out the snap ring that was between the dust seal and fork seal. You are now ready to separate the fork tubes. Get a good grip on each fork tube and slide the tubes in opposite directions until it stops. Now push them back together and pull hard in opposite directions. Do this 2 or 3 times to pop out the fork oil seal. You now have the tubes apart. Pay close attention to the order of the parts.
Dust seal, snap ring, fork oil seal, back-up ring, outer bushing, inner bushing.
The bushings in my 954 were really worn and needed replaced. If you are replacing your forks seals I would recommend replacing both the inner and outer bushings along with the copper washer in the bottom of the fork.
Using your fingers separate the inner bushing and slide it off the fork tube. (Its the one that sits in a groove on the fork tube). Remove the outer bushing, back-up ring, fork oil seal and snap ring. If you are not replacing the dust seal then leave it on the fork tube.
You now have your forks completely apart. Clean everything really well with brake cleaner and keep the parts in order. The upper fork tube is easy to clean because you can push a small rag through it. Fork the bottom fork tube I straightened a wire coat hanger and bent one end into a loop. Then I sprayed brake cleaner down the tube and using 2 paper towels I pushed them down the fork tube using the damper assembly to the bottom. Now feed the coat hanger through the hole in the bottom of the fork and push the paper towels back up and out of the fork tube. They will be black from dirt and I had to repeat this procedure several times to get them clean.
I will be posting the installation of Racetech springs and the complete rebuild of the forks with pictures step by step in the next few days.
Dust seal, snap ring, fork oil seal, back-up ring, outer bushing, inner bushing.
The bushings in my 954 were really worn and needed replaced. If you are replacing your forks seals I would recommend replacing both the inner and outer bushings along with the copper washer in the bottom of the fork.
Using your fingers separate the inner bushing and slide it off the fork tube. (Its the one that sits in a groove on the fork tube). Remove the outer bushing, back-up ring, fork oil seal and snap ring. If you are not replacing the dust seal then leave it on the fork tube.
You now have your forks completely apart. Clean everything really well with brake cleaner and keep the parts in order. The upper fork tube is easy to clean because you can push a small rag through it. Fork the bottom fork tube I straightened a wire coat hanger and bent one end into a loop. Then I sprayed brake cleaner down the tube and using 2 paper towels I pushed them down the fork tube using the damper assembly to the bottom. Now feed the coat hanger through the hole in the bottom of the fork and push the paper towels back up and out of the fork tube. They will be black from dirt and I had to repeat this procedure several times to get them clean.
I will be posting the installation of Racetech springs and the complete rebuild of the forks with pictures step by step in the next few days.
Last edited by backdoc; 01-09-2011 at 11:34 PM.
#8
01-09-2011, 06:00 PM
#9
01-12-2011, 11:33 AM
Rebuild: New springs, fork seals, inner and outer bushings
Now we are ready to rebuild the forks. First lets compare the old parts to the new parts. The first pic is the stock spring and the racetech spring. Notice the Racetech spring is a little shorter.
Next we have the outer bushing. The left one came off my bike and the right one is the new one. Big difference. This explains all the metal flake in the old fork fluid.
Last Pic is the inner bushing. Again the left came off my bike and the right is new.
The bushings from the other fork looked just as bad. I would recommend changing them if you have to change your fork oil seals.
Now we are ready to rebuild the forks. First lets compare the old parts to the new parts. The first pic is the stock spring and the racetech spring. Notice the Racetech spring is a little shorter.
Next we have the outer bushing. The left one came off my bike and the right one is the new one. Big difference. This explains all the metal flake in the old fork fluid.
Last Pic is the inner bushing. Again the left came off my bike and the right is new.
The bushings from the other fork looked just as bad. I would recommend changing them if you have to change your fork oil seals.
#10
01-12-2011, 11:35 AM
Make sure you have all your parts ready and cleaned. First place the lower fork tube with axle holder in a vise. Next place some grease on the fork bullet (if you bought one) and slide in down on the lower fork tube until it covers the lower groove for the inner bushing. Place a small amount of fork grease or high quality grease on the dust seal, fork oil seal, inner and outer bushings.
MAKE SURE TO PUT PARTS ON IN CORRECT ORDER!!
1. Dust seal
2. snap ring
3. fork oil seal
4. back-up ring
5. outer bushing
6. inner bushing.
Remove fork bullet after fork oil seal. We are now ready to install the fork seals.
MAKE SURE TO PUT PARTS ON IN CORRECT ORDER!!
1. Dust seal
2. snap ring
3. fork oil seal
4. back-up ring
5. outer bushing
6. inner bushing.
Remove fork bullet after fork oil seal. We are now ready to install the fork seals.