Stripped Oil Pan
Okay. So after I changed my oil on my 93 f2. I put the drain plug back in and didnt even torque it and it just would snug. ITS StRipped. NOw what. is there anything else I can do besides looking for a new pan ?
Ha, ok, so you all might think this is a super sketch idea, but it might work. Take some teflon stray, spray it on your drain bolt, then, wrap it in quick steel. Then, press it into the whole. Let it harden, and then unthread the drain bolt. I know that some poeple might find that scetchy, but quick steel is quite strong and very temp resistant. Just a suggestion. I have seen quuick steel used to seal the side of an engine case that was puntured by a shifter in a crash. It was 50 miles out on a trail, so there was no other choice. Hope this helps!
About the only dependable, cost effect fix you can do involves dropping the pan. Since the pan is already off, you might as well just buy a used pan on ebay. anywhere from 20-30 bucks will get you a good pan.
If you have a shop helicoil it like already mentioned, it's going to cost about the same as a used pan. Might as well get a good pan. you won't have the worry of the heli-coil backing out. plus, if the helicoil is not properly sealed on the outer thread, it can leak oil. I only reserve things like heli-coils or keyserts for parts that are not readily accessable, temporary fixes, or parts that are very expensive. Its just not the case here as used pans are very cheap and are available.
You could drill and tap it the next size up like already mentioned, my only problem with that is finding a tap that has fine enough threads, and then a bolt that has the perfectly flat mating surface to seal it up. You could put a gasket between the bolt head the mating surface, but you will still need a fine thread bolt. Most oil pans are not very thick, and using a course thread will not have enough threads engaged to tighten it properly. Buying the tap, the drill, and the bolt, you'll probably be close to buying a new pan. Unless you have everything available, then it might be a more attractive solution.
Having said that, I agree with cbr900racer77's last comment. Just buy a new pan.
If you have a shop helicoil it like already mentioned, it's going to cost about the same as a used pan. Might as well get a good pan. you won't have the worry of the heli-coil backing out. plus, if the helicoil is not properly sealed on the outer thread, it can leak oil. I only reserve things like heli-coils or keyserts for parts that are not readily accessable, temporary fixes, or parts that are very expensive. Its just not the case here as used pans are very cheap and are available.
You could drill and tap it the next size up like already mentioned, my only problem with that is finding a tap that has fine enough threads, and then a bolt that has the perfectly flat mating surface to seal it up. You could put a gasket between the bolt head the mating surface, but you will still need a fine thread bolt. Most oil pans are not very thick, and using a course thread will not have enough threads engaged to tighten it properly. Buying the tap, the drill, and the bolt, you'll probably be close to buying a new pan. Unless you have everything available, then it might be a more attractive solution.
Having said that, I agree with cbr900racer77's last comment. Just buy a new pan.
Thanks Guys! I appreciate the feedback. Im gonna go with the used pan route. Ive been waiting to ride with my buddy who is a n00by all summer and He gets his First bike tomorrow. SO Bummed I have to wait for something in the mail
if you got a tap and die set just rethread it for the next bolt size up and pick up the bolt and a washer at your local hardware store for a quick fix so you can ride until the new pan comes or just keep the new bolt in there would recommend the new pan tho, i had to do that on my quad just retapped and got a bigger bolt but i dont care anywhere close as much about my quad as i do my bike lol
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