If that seafoam doesn't clear it up after using the whole bottle, I'd say you'd find it worth your time to pull those carbs, and verify the operation of everything. Since you're in there, you'll have the chance to clean your air filter too. Learn how to do it, it's really not that hard. I was scared at first but with the help of my MMI friend, we took care of it pretty easy. I recommend some braided nickel wire maybe 2-3 strands for your idle jets, which might be your problem here. Once you got it done, you won't need to do it for a long time and you'll learn an intimate part of the operation of your bike.

One thing I learned when pulling the carbs (besides that braided wire), was you need somethin in the carbs to fire it back up in order to start the suction process it uses with the small hose to the petcock. I had to give my bike oral (suck on the small tube connected to the petcock) to get some gas to flow in then she fired right up.

 

FYI, if in the act of oral, you had to "suck it through a tube" then your bike is a HE not a SHE. lol
Seriously though, good info. But whats the nickle wire for. Would stainless work?

 

So here it goes...

I packed everything up and decided not to fug with the carbs. The bike tad trouble starting up, and actually WOULD NOT start without blipping the throttle (i know...very bad).

Anyway. I changed:

1. Oil + filter
2. spark plugs (CR9EH9)
3. Did the seafoam treatment. I ran a little less than 1/3 of the bottle through the carbs at a very slow pace while engine was warm (but not hot). I dumped the rest of the can into an almost 1/2 full tank of gas. I shut it off and let it sit for about 15-20 minutes. Turned it back on (No blipping throttle required), and it was a smoke show for a little under 10 minutes.

I took it for a nice 20 minute highway runto get the seafoam in the gas flowing.

I have not changed the air filter yet. It REALY needs to be changed. I've got it ordered and its on its way.


Should I do another oil change after all the seafoam I ran through? I still have seafoam in the gas tank.

I noticed the bike is much more responsive. My heart was racing, because I didn't expect it to move the way it did It also used to hesitate a little under 3000 rpm. There is no hesitation now (or maybe I just haven't felt it yet).

 

For the problem: Your air filter is going to hold you back no matter what since this is one of two ingredients that cause those pistons to move. Start there. If you want an idea as to what you're doing to your bike, tape some duct tape around your mouth, then run down to the end of your block. You will now understand how your bike feels. Poor thing... If no fix there, I'm will to bet you have a problem with your idle jets and quite possibly the choke. Seafoam is great for a little grime but if there's not enough room to push through it's just like a clogged drain and you gotta get a pipe snake. Verify operation of choke which you can do when you clean your air filter, and either at the time or later, clean your jets. Most likely your main jet and choke jet is ok, just your idles are filled with poop.

The only reason I suggest nickel is because copper is very brittle and flexible. The nickel was more tensile which made it a perfect candidate to twist strands together making a brush like end which would help break through, but still be sturdy enough to break through the gunk rather than bend and be a useless POS. You can certainly use any wire just make sure it's sturdy enough to punch through, but not strong enough to scratch the brass jet cuz if you fuq up the shape, or groove it, you will permanantly change the way the fuel passes through this portion creating your own personal type of venturi system which will probably fail.

P.S. NO SHE's a SHE I would never suck off a guy.... anyways, at least it was getting turned on so I was doin something right

 

Hey,
Thanks for the input. For the record, I am NOT riding the bike. I realize what a gunked up air filter can do, and I will not be running it until the air filter arrives (Tuesday).

Can the idle jets be cleaned without removing the carbs? I'm not sure where they are located.

I should mention that the bike does idle OK. It has no problem idling at even 1100rpm. Since its a little cold still, I've adjusted the idle to float around 1500.

I'll pop the air filter in once it arrives, and will report back the results.

I'm still wondering though, is another oil changed required since I used Seafoam in the gas tank + down the carbs?

Thanks again!

 

I don't think an oil change is necessary. SF directions state that it can be poured directly into the oil at 1.5 oz. per quart. That's way more than could have possibly have passed past the rings by the method utilized.

 

Hey guys... I just realized I completely stole this thread sorry.

So I put a new OEM air filter in, and the bikes acceleration is a little smoother (nothing crazy, but definitely a noticeable improvement).

HOWEVER, I'm still not getting a good start.

With choke on, the bike turns over and starts up FIRST try. It revs up to about 1400rpm, stays there for about 3 seconds, and drops back down to zero and dies.

If I give it some throttle (quickly) during the 3 seconds it is on, it will crap out.

If I give it some throttle (very gently) during the 3 seconds it is on, it will keep running.

I can stop giving throttle after about 5 seconds and let go... engine will keep running/idling fine.

 

It sounds like it's running rich but no guru... Still no guru but personally I'd say the idle jets need cleaning, you need to check the operation of your and throttle at the carbs. Pipe should have 2-3 mm of play before engaging the butterfly setup. Lastly, the fuel mixture screws need to be setup so you need to at least set them equally but better yet, sync the carbs which involves the setting of the fuel mixture screws.

All of these components involve your ability for starting and staying running, so until all are ruled out, they remain the primary suspects.

 

Update

I took out the carbs and cleaned the 2 removal jets from each carb. 2 of the jets were clogged (no light passing through). I cleaned them well and put made sure the floats were not sticking. Everything else was already pretty cleaned with the exception of some minor light brown goopy stuff...which I cleaned aswell.

Now with CHOKE ON (still chilly), the bike turns on instantly and rpms go up to about 1500 and drop down to about 1200 and it just sits there until it warms up (1 minute or so)... at which point i turn choke off and rpms stabilize at around 1400.

Does this sound normal? This is my first bike ever...so i'm not really sure what normal is. The good thing is that it ALWAYS starts right away and ALWAYS never dies now (even if I give it some throttle right after startup). Althought I think it should idle higher with choke on with cold engine.. no?

Thanks!