Hey everyone,

My F2 has got some issues, I'll try to be as clear as possible.

When I first bought the bike, it ran smoothly, and when I trucked it back to my house, it wouldn't start. I had my uncle clean out one of the valves, and the back ran well after that. (some debris clogged the fuel valve?) However, during cooler days it was really hard to start my bike.

I have changed the oil since I've bought it. After the oil change, the bike ran well. now, The bike sounds like it wants to turn over, but only after I keep feathering the throttle will it go. When its cold it can take me 10 minutes to start the bike up.

It sounds like there isn't any gas getting to the carbs, but this is my first bike so I'm not super tech knowledgeable yet.

The bike has been reduced to not being able to start at all now. Any ideas? I'm hoping its as easy as cleaning out the same valve as before, but I don't think the bike is being starved of gas because it runs fine when I get it started.

Thanks in advance!

 

Check your choke cable where it attaches to the carbs. It needs to be adjusted so that the choke is fully engaged when you put it on. The cable stretches over time. If that doesn't do it, open up the pilot jet screws 1/4 turn, but no more. My bike was really cold blooded in the winter. The choke cable adjustment fixed my hard start issue.

 

Could need to thoroughly clean your carbs. When was the last time they were cleaned?

Had to dig in my memory to remember this thread: F3 carb cleaning advanced. In the picture that IDoDirt posted is the starting / choke circuit. It's the one he has a twist tie stuck in it. The more clogged that hole is, the harder it'll be to start when cold.

 

thanks for the advice. I'll check the choke cable when I get the chance. Hopefully that will fix my problem

 

Definitely check out the f3 carb post from Kuroshio.

 

Agree with that. The carbs are normally tuned lean. Opening the pilot screw a 1/4 turn can help a lot with idle and slow speed operation. There's a screw on each of the four carbs facing the back of the bike. You can reach them with the R & L fairings removed.

 

Really shouldn't mess with the A/F mixtures without verifying the condition of the carbs. This is why people end up backing the idle adjustment screw out of their engines, for example

If the reason for the hard start is because of dirty carbs, all that will do is cover it up. While possibly affecting performance elsewhere.

 

Thanks for the help guys,

I took apart my bike and found that the choke cable was doing absolutely nothing...It was extremely stretched to the point of when I engaged the choke, nothing happened.

so once again,

thanks again, I learned a lot about my bike and how it works. Looks like I'll have to order a new choke cable and install it.

 

Did you check to make sure the cable stop is secured at the end of the cable near the carburetors? If it isn't secured, the choke cable won't do anything. When I got my bike, what I found is that the choke adjuster would only move 3/4 of the way. I didn't force it further because it felt like the lever would break. When I lubed the cable and secured the end, I was able to move the lever all the way and I can see the chokes opening on each carburetor.

 

It was loose, and I secured it in the bracket where is should be but there is still a ridiculous amount of slack in the cable. It didn't really matter in the end of things because even with that small correction the cable doesn't engage anything