hard brake problems
#1
hard brake problems
getting some shuddering when hard braking so i was wondering if anyone knew of ways to check things.
i read it could be the steering head bearing, it feels like, after the weight shift to the front forks, like it is dropping a few millimeters deeper into the suspension making the clatter feeling.
if that makes sense.. im not saying thats what is happening it just feels like that cause something is banging in the front end.
now i must also state that the front brake isnt very linear.. sometimes when pulling it it will get past what feels like.. resistance and then boom, front brake..
so im going to disassemble the front brake to hopefully clean that up, i hear it needs to be lubricated.
but how would i go about testing the rotors or calipers? i wanted to rebuild the calipers cause the pistons are rusted but, at the time it seemed too much.
and for the rotors can i check to see if they are bent by using a heat gun? will the non straight parts be hotter?
so i got 32k miles on the steering head bearing, rusted caliper pistons, new brake pads, a sticky brake handle, new brake fluid,
new SS brake lines 8k miles on the fork fluid, appropriate spring rate.
it brakes with no problems except for the sticky handle at lower speeds of course.
bike details
01 cbr 600 f4i, .95kg front springs, no revalve, no compression, 10 weight. rear end raised 11mm, 32k miles
i read it could be the steering head bearing, it feels like, after the weight shift to the front forks, like it is dropping a few millimeters deeper into the suspension making the clatter feeling.
if that makes sense.. im not saying thats what is happening it just feels like that cause something is banging in the front end.
now i must also state that the front brake isnt very linear.. sometimes when pulling it it will get past what feels like.. resistance and then boom, front brake..
so im going to disassemble the front brake to hopefully clean that up, i hear it needs to be lubricated.
but how would i go about testing the rotors or calipers? i wanted to rebuild the calipers cause the pistons are rusted but, at the time it seemed too much.
and for the rotors can i check to see if they are bent by using a heat gun? will the non straight parts be hotter?
so i got 32k miles on the steering head bearing, rusted caliper pistons, new brake pads, a sticky brake handle, new brake fluid,
new SS brake lines 8k miles on the fork fluid, appropriate spring rate.
it brakes with no problems except for the sticky handle at lower speeds of course.
bike details
01 cbr 600 f4i, .95kg front springs, no revalve, no compression, 10 weight. rear end raised 11mm, 32k miles
#3
Rudy, the answer seems fairly obvious.
Rebuild the front brakes. Lubricate the lever.
To check front disc warp you need to fix a pointer or better still a dial test indicator, to the fork stanchion. It's not rocket science. Lift the front wheel off the ground and spin it. You will see where the pointer touches and doesn't touch the disc. It doesn't take much run out to cause shudder under even light braking. If in doubt change the rotors.
Steering bearing- change them for taper rollers and adjust them correctly. Not a big job to do.
If those two jobs don't sort the problem out, check and if necessary the bottom fork bushes inside the fork tube, and also the front wheel bearings.
If you shop wisely you'll probably spend no more than $200 on parts and then it's either your own time or whatever labour cost you can haggle.
Now don't come back here talking about rusted callipers. My mother would tell you to wash your mouth out with soap!
Rebuild the front brakes. Lubricate the lever.
To check front disc warp you need to fix a pointer or better still a dial test indicator, to the fork stanchion. It's not rocket science. Lift the front wheel off the ground and spin it. You will see where the pointer touches and doesn't touch the disc. It doesn't take much run out to cause shudder under even light braking. If in doubt change the rotors.
Steering bearing- change them for taper rollers and adjust them correctly. Not a big job to do.
If those two jobs don't sort the problem out, check and if necessary the bottom fork bushes inside the fork tube, and also the front wheel bearings.
If you shop wisely you'll probably spend no more than $200 on parts and then it's either your own time or whatever labour cost you can haggle.
Now don't come back here talking about rusted callipers. My mother would tell you to wash your mouth out with soap!
#4
thanks for the advice, taper rollers and stick a sharp pencil to the forks!
if im replacing pistons and seals only its gonna run $290 in parts unfortunatly.
not shuddering at all under light braking so i assume thats not the problem.
my fork bushings can be suspect though one of them was close to the limit.
if im replacing pistons and seals only its gonna run $290 in parts unfortunatly.
not shuddering at all under light braking so i assume thats not the problem.
my fork bushings can be suspect though one of them was close to the limit.
#5
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