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Old May 4, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #11  
adrenalnjunky's Avatar
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Thanks IDD - I stared at to many schematics and got pulled down other paths, when my first thought in my first post was the Diode itself.
 
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Old May 4, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #12  
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No problem AJ, I looked at that diagram for 20 minutes before I realized what it was missing. I kept thinking ignition too. Then it was like

I just want to hear Khafros give us the scoop on what he finds.
 
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Old May 4, 2011 | 10:36 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by IDoDirt
No problem AJ, I looked at that diagram for 20 minutes before I realized what it was missing. I kept thinking ignition too. Then it was like

I just want to hear Khafros give us the scoop on what he finds.
Yeah - he's in lithuania - probably just waking up over there :-)

I'm still damn impressed with the video included right off the bat.

I can't tell you how many times I started tracing the ground from the neutral switch back thru the diode towards the clutch before my brains said, "no stupid potential can't flow that direction through the diode."
 
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Old May 4, 2011 | 10:48 PM
  #14  
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here's a semi related question though that I was trying to wrap my head around - in the ignition schematic, what shuts the bike off if you put it in gear with the stand down? I'm thinking it has to be the ICM no longer seeing ground on the G/W wire right? Probably kills the signal to the coils or something?

If the stand is down there's no ground being passed on the G/W wire, and no ground being routed thru the clutch switch. Since the bike is running and the clutch is pulled in, it has to be the ICM cutting the spark in this situation, rite? (sorry - I've had a couple of drinks tonight and I may be missing something huge here)
 
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Old May 4, 2011 | 10:52 PM
  #15  
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I'll tell you this - when I do the custom harness on the old Yamaha I'm working on - there won't be a lot of these fancy safety switches. headlight, brakelight, turns, separate charging system, separate electronic ignition. simple.
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 01:19 PM
  #16  
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I took the diod out. The only diference it has made is that the green neutral light went off. Same start - kick stand and clutch IN. I jumped the diod connections and eureka !!! It started (where can I get a new diod ? does it have to be a special honda diod ?)
THANK YOU
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #17  
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This look like the right thing - honda part # 31700-196-000 - used in lots of common motorcycle and powersport applications.


Found a EU dealer here:

31700-196-000 - RECTIFIER,SILICON
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 02:48 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Khafros
I took the diod out. The only diference it has made is that the green neutral light went off. Same start - kick stand and clutch IN. I jumped the diod connections and eureka !!! It started (where can I get a new diod ? does it have to be a special honda diod ?)
THANK YOU
Well, I'm glad you were able to confirm that it was the Diode. Don't leave the jumper wires on it though, it could cause problems with your ICM. You're able to get the bike started, but you had to have the Side Stand in the upright position. That's more of an inconvenience than anything else. Order the one that AJ suggested and install it when you get it.
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #19  
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there is a number on mine 7.7. What does it mean ? is there any difference ?
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #20  
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Probably not - that appears to be a near-universal part for a LOT of honda models - that part number goes in tons of things - including boat motors and lawn equipment.

It is entirely possible if you have a local honda dealer for either of those product lines, they might have the part or can order it for you as well. It appears to run between $15-25 US.

Or if yuo have a MC salvage yard near - pull the application list on the first link and go searching one out.
 
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