in order for a weld to retain origional strenth requirements it MUST penetrate 100% of base metal. if im looking at the picture correctly there are areas that cannot acheive that. the amount of heat that would be required would glob up the outside of the weld before the inside was fused together

i hate to burst your bubble about the bike but it may be a lost cause. aluminum is a pain to weld as ive done my share of it.

there are areas of the break that i can see are unweldable with out the engine out of the the bike. it will have to be TIG welded and you simply cannot get the tig torch into that tight of an area (even the minis) and expect a good weld.

sorry

 

alright so I was able to undo the engine mounts and tilt the entire engine forward about 3 inches to make this area accessible. I cleaned the damaged area up and brought the bike to a professional aluminum welder in my area. He was able to weld the motor mount to the case with a nice, neat clean-looking weld. He was able to get to all sides of it and assured me that it is now just as strong as it orginally was. Also, in one of the pictures I attached, you can see where the end of the frame had been tweaked slightly. The welder was able to heat that part up and slowly twist it back to its orginal position. He warned me that that part of the frame was significantly weaker now, however. (I just have to avoid crashing!)

The only concern he had with the weld was with the plastic cam chain guide that was behind the broken mount inside the case (visible in the picture that I attached). He said that during the course of the weld the end of the guide was sure to melt at least a little. To what extent it melted, I don't know. I looked in the manual and it appeared the guide wasnt a moving part... so I'm hoping that if the end of it had been melted, it won't effect the chain's performance.. I guess at this point I'll just have to run the hell out of her and see what happens.