theres a good chance ur cct will not go out but just rattle ive heard of ppl ridin with a noisy cct for 4-5 yrs or longer i rode with mine for about a yr before i wrecked my bike but it never caused any probs, i think u would be fine, but i dont think the manual cct are very good cause they stay in one spot not allowing for any slack as with the auto cct it allows slack when it is needed, just get another OEM one from honda, there better, u might be replacin it again in 18000 miles or something but i think there better for our bikes, If the experts at honda thought a manual cct was better they would of put that on there.
BTW nice bike Canadian

 

yea the book says all that stuff...i don't know of anyone, including the dealer, that does all that. they only 'said' they did it for me when i took the bike in for a valve adjustment, the rest of the time i did it myself.

i would just remove and replace.

if you get the manual, the hardest part is adjusting it...
to do so, tighten it until the noise goes away, then back out until you hear it again and then tighten about 1/4 turn. then tighten the lock nut and make sure you loctite it or it may back out on you...

the OEM works like this...it finds a loose spot and then lets the cctl shaft extend more...and more and more...so as the slack continues to come due to wear or age, the cctl keeps extending and extending...it won't retract ever, only extend.

with the manual, you set it and that's it...if there are loose spots that develop or you missed, it'll start to rattle again.

whatever you choose, take your time!

 

I picked up one from Honda yesterday afternoon and will be replacing it on the weekend I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks for all your help.

 

hey mang...did you get the gasket too? and the washer for the bolt at the end of the cctl? the first time i just reused it with no problems...but sometimes it may leak.

t

 

Gasket yes but not the washer, didn't know I should.

 

it's just one, the one located on the body of the cctl...at the rear of it...where the stopper pin goes before you pulled it out...

you should get a new one there but don't really have to, just make sure it doesn't leak.

t

 

Your all tightening em too tight to start with, with the manual tensioner,
to tension the chain properly with a manual CCT you should set the engine to TDC take the cam cover off then apply tension to the chain if you tighten it so much there is no backlash in the chain, once it warms it expands and all different metals in the engine expand at different rates. therefore your not just putting excess force on the cam chain, your cam bearings & crank main bearing is suffering too, not to mention the guide behind the CCT.

Put it another way you wouldnt tighen the drive chain so it had no slack in it would you????
it's the same thing just on a bigger scale.

 

how long would it take a first timer to do this? im good with cars but just learning about cycles. what do the new parts run in cost on average? how much harder is it to change the whole chain, instead of just the cct?

 

Changed my CCT for the first time on Saturday and it took just over an hour. Went for a long ride with a buddy on Sunday (put on 186 miles) and the noise is gone.[sm=happy046.gif]

Thanks for your help stephygee and Tahoe SC.[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

Junior I bought my CCT from the local Honda dealer (got the stock replacement) for $64.52CAD and $2.62CAD for the gasket + tax. So far as changing the cam chain, I've never done one so I can't comment on how hard it is to do but the CCT is easy and reasonably cheap so I'd just change the CCT and see if it fixes your problem. Unless you have really high mileage I'd guess your chain is just fine so changing it would be overkill and a waste of money.

 

DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THE RR CCT

I HAVE AN 04 600 RR THAT IS MAKING THE SAME NOISE ONLY FROM A STOP TILL ABOUT 5000 RPM.

THERE IS ABOUT 14000 MILES ON IT SO I DONT KNOW IF ITS THE CCT OR CHAIN ITSELF. AND I AM NOT FOR SURE IF THE 04 RR HAS A MANUAL ADJUSTMENT CCT .

IM SWEATIN JUST THINKING ABOUT CRACKING THE CASE TO REPLACE THE CHAIN