Taking F4i out of storage-what next?
#21
I'm not trying to be a smart *** but one of my favorite characteristics of my F4i is that it is rock solid reliable. Hell, I totaled the thing 2 years ago (we,re talking 60mph end over end tumbling down the road), completely disassembled it, rebuild it with ebay parts and it started right up. I've been running it ever since with very liberal maintenance. I am yet to have a problem(aside form CCTL rattle). Keep in mind, 8 months out of the year it is my primary transportation. I say, start the damn thing up and rip it. Enjoy, what I consider, one of the most solid bikes ever built.
#22
Got the bike out tonight. Fresh oil change (I checked and I only had 800 miles on the last oil change before I stored it - the oil still looked brand new), lubed the chain, checked all the cables, brakes, tire pressure, signals/lights, fluid levels, etc...all set for this weekend. only suppose to be like 44 degrees, so I probably wont be out too long, but enough to make me happy.
#24
I'm not trying to be a smart *** but one of my favorite characteristics of my F4i is that it is rock solid reliable. Hell, I totaled the thing 2 years ago (we,re talking 60mph end over end tumbling down the road), completely disassembled it, rebuild it with ebay parts and it started right up. I've been running it ever since with very liberal maintenance. I am yet to have a problem(aside form CCTL rattle). Keep in mind, 8 months out of the year it is my primary transportation. I say, start the damn thing up and rip it. Enjoy, what I consider, one of the most solid bikes ever built.
It is supposed to be near 60 on sunday. I will roll my bike out, turn the key on, hit the start button and ride it. These bikes have been sitting a few months not YEARS. The only thing I would maybe do is check the chain and tire pressures. When the time comes (mileage wise) to change the oil I will do so.
#25
I don't know if I'll change the oil either. I changed the oil literally maybe with 50+ miles of it going into winter storage. I may ride it for a month into the riding season then change it. The bike doesn't have conventional oil, it's literally sipping on some expensive oil which should not be decaying or "breaking-down" as they term it just by sitting. Think about it, the oil prior to be poured into the bike and sitting in the crankcase, it was pretty much sitting in a bottle on a shelf somewhere.
#26
I don't know if I'll change the oil either. I changed the oil literally maybe with 50+ miles of it going into winter storage. I may ride it for a month into the riding season then change it. The bike doesn't have conventional oil, it's literally sipping on some expensive oil which should not be decaying or "breaking-down" as they term it just by sitting. Think about it, the oil prior to be poured into the bike and sitting in the crankcase, it was pretty much sitting in a bottle on a shelf somewhere.
#27
I don't know if I'll change the oil either. I changed the oil literally maybe with 50+ miles of it going into winter storage. I may ride it for a month into the riding season then change it. The bike doesn't have conventional oil, it's literally sipping on some expensive oil which should not be decaying or "breaking-down" as they term it just by sitting. Think about it, the oil prior to be poured into the bike and sitting in the crankcase, it was pretty much sitting in a bottle on a shelf somewhere.
I just changed the oil in our XJR 6k miles - last change was in August of 08.
My RX-7 was changed at:
25,664 - 12/4/04
27,529 - 6/28/08
Current Mileage - 27,765
If I changed that every time it sat a couple months I would literally have to change the oil each time I drive it.
Let's also not forget that regular oil sat in the ground for MILLIONS of years and now we are worried that it will catastrophically decay in 120 days?? I'll stick with what I am doing - it is working well.
#28
#30
I think I've gotten to a point in my life where I feel it necessary to dis-spell a few myths...including changing oil after your bike has sat all be it for a few months....especially where you are using fully synthetic motorcycle oil. Here's a link from Mobil 1 about their oil...which I'm sure much of these facts is consistent with the quality of synthetic motorcycle oil from other leading competitors...if you feel necessary to read the entire article, by all means enjoy and here's the link to the entire article.
http://www.mobil.com/Australia-Engli..._V_Mineral.asp
This is just an excerpt:
Mobil 1 Temperature Properties
Mobil 1 Cold Temperature Properties
Mobil 1 has outstanding low temperature fluidity (it will flow at temperatures below -54°C) and allows the cold starting potential of any car to be maximized. Most engine wear occurs during the critical first seconds after start before the lubricant flows into place to prevent direct metal-on-metal contact. At all cold start temperatures synthetic oils get to the critical wear areas (camshaft & bearings) of the engine quicker than equivalent mineral grades.
Mobil 1 Hot Temperature Properties
So what value is this at high temperatures? At high temperatures the oil molecule in synthetic oils are far more stable and degenerate less. This means not only do synthetic oils maintain lubrication integrity, they continue to cool and clean engine components at constant temperatures of up to 180°C, and can handle short term temperatures in excess of 200°C.
At Bathurst in 2002 when the winning HRT Commodore was running with a blocked radiator inlet the oil temperature rose to above 200°C yet the engine not only survived in perfect condition, it won the race.
http://www.mobil.com/Australia-Engli..._V_Mineral.asp
This is just an excerpt:
Mobil 1 Temperature Properties
Mobil 1 Cold Temperature Properties
Mobil 1 has outstanding low temperature fluidity (it will flow at temperatures below -54°C) and allows the cold starting potential of any car to be maximized. Most engine wear occurs during the critical first seconds after start before the lubricant flows into place to prevent direct metal-on-metal contact. At all cold start temperatures synthetic oils get to the critical wear areas (camshaft & bearings) of the engine quicker than equivalent mineral grades.
Mobil 1 Hot Temperature Properties
So what value is this at high temperatures? At high temperatures the oil molecule in synthetic oils are far more stable and degenerate less. This means not only do synthetic oils maintain lubrication integrity, they continue to cool and clean engine components at constant temperatures of up to 180°C, and can handle short term temperatures in excess of 200°C.
At Bathurst in 2002 when the winning HRT Commodore was running with a blocked radiator inlet the oil temperature rose to above 200°C yet the engine not only survived in perfect condition, it won the race.
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