Sounds like a plan. I may just replace the old one and assume it's bad, the bike is at 24k miles or so and the filter is cheap enough I might as well be done with it.

 

Don't forget air. This sound fuel related. But bike needs air to run right too. Check your air filter and hoses.

How cold was it when you rode last and how long had you been riding before hitting the limit? Was wondering if condensation had frozen the air filter 'closed'

Oh yeah, try Zero's neutral suggestion before the 10k downshift. Could be catastrophic on several levels if something goes wrong

 

I'm failing to see why everyone is so concerned about down shifting at 10k
It's going to engine brake a litte. Big deal. Do it a couple of times and let us know if it dies. If it doesn't die does it hold steady? Can you accelerate through it?

What kind of shape are the plugs in? Just curious. It could be spark breakdown under high load

 

It was probably in the high 30's when I first had the issue, and I'd ridden for 10 or 15 miles before I tried to rev that high.

I've had the same issue on a 70+ degree day though, so I'm not sure about the temp.

 

Not sure, it's supposed to be 50 and sunny today, and I only work a half day. When I'm off I'm going to pull the bike out and check.

So far I've got:
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Syphon all gas and refill with fresh gas(issue has proceeded across three tanks, but I normally fill up at about 40%, so it's possible something is still gunking up the system)
Neutral test

Anything else I'm missing?

 

I still want to know what happens when you downshift at 10k

If you do it from three to two on the highway nothing you cant handle/predict will happen. The back tire might slip up for a second but just keep the bars relatively straight and you won't have any issues.

Also, IMO you can move bad fuel to the bottom of you check list- You're had enough gas through there now (3 tanks) that if nothing else the problem would have gotten better. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Took it out, tested the downshift.

Riding along at 10k rpm in 3rd, drop to 2nd. Bike shudders like it's about to stall, RPM drops to about 10.5k. FI light comes on, shuddering stops, bike displays previous issue.

Took the bike back to the house, tested in neutral, bike ceases to rev any higher in neutral.

Pulled the fairings, started to take off tank, noticed that the bolts on the gas tank have zero tool marks on them, makes me wonder if the air filter has ever been changed. I get the tank off, open the airbox, and pull the filter. God Damn that thing is filthy! I'm not even talking normal filter bad, I'm talking visibly caked in dirt/dust and looks like the filter in my 4x4 does after I spend a month playing in the dust/cinders/mud/sand. Also found in the airbox beneath the filter: 2 rocks, about the size of a quarter. A large Twig, about as big around as my pinky, a few small peices of asphalt/cinder, and 1 guinness cap. Guess I know where the rattling that I couldn't track down was coming from.

Replace the filter, check the fuel filter while I've got the tank off, clear a little bit of junk out, but not enough to impact performance )maybe 5 or 6 black flakes the size of a finger nail clipping). Put the new filter in, put everything back together, rev the bike all the way to 13k rpm in neutral. (As an aside, I've never reved that bike up that high, the wail at that RPM is amazing! Also, Not sure if it's the torque of the engine, or the force of the air being pulled into the bike, but the front end lowers a bit on the suspension when it's at 10K+ rpm)

Took the bike out, took it to about 13.5k in 1st - 3rd gear, no FI light, no shudder, no issues. Bike also seems to behave significantly nicer at lower RPMs as well.

Thanks everyone for your help!

 

Great! Now if you ever get that thing up to 14k you'll see that shift light to the right side of your tach come to life

 

Gotta love bouncing it off the limiter...the shift light flashing and the idle bouncing puts a slight grin on my face