Performance Speed Chip
#62
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The only thing safe for the bike is total disassembly, sealing it in a hyperbolic chamber andsending it into space on the dark side of the moon.
No....seriously, I think it's a valid concern. Just as people were concerned when fuel processors showed up on the market when FI bikes were new.
No....seriously, I think it's a valid concern. Just as people were concerned when fuel processors showed up on the market when FI bikes were new.
#63
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i have seen the resistor type ones,the thing that attracted me to give this a try is that is actually changeable,a la power commander
albeit by means of a dip switch,there are some dyno's on ebay to show the difference so watch this space,will be fitting it this weekend
all future purchases of this item will require a donation to my new tyres for the manx grand prix.
Have just got back from the isle of man tt races-check it out on you tube-just type in isle of man tt races
its the longest and oldest racetrack in the world-37.75 miles per lap
and it is competed on regular roads,awesome scary stuff. !
albeit by means of a dip switch,there are some dyno's on ebay to show the difference so watch this space,will be fitting it this weekend
all future purchases of this item will require a donation to my new tyres for the manx grand prix.
Have just got back from the isle of man tt races-check it out on you tube-just type in isle of man tt races
its the longest and oldest racetrack in the world-37.75 miles per lap
and it is competed on regular roads,awesome scary stuff. !
#64
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ORIGINAL: 65ShelbyClone
It's that little white sensor in the airbox lid. I took the liberty of checking the one on my engine just now and at around 80 degrees ambient, the sensor showed 1.88k ohms. After I held onto it with my fingers, which I would guesstimate to be between 94 and 98 degrees, it dropped and settled on 1.4k. The spec for testing it is 68-86F and the resistance should be 1 to 4k. The FSM doesn't say what temp relates to what resistance. If it only drops 0.48k from 80-96*, but drops 3k from 68-86, then the ohm:voltage curve is nowhere near linear(they seldom are). That ultimately means that the resistor value you try to "hack" your IAT with is entirely dependent on what ambient temps the bike will be ridden in. This could also explain why some people see results with the hackboxes and some don't. It's also worth mentioning that the CA model have exhaust gas oxygen sensors and I presume an adaptive learning strategy. If that's true, then the ECU has authority to lean out the fuel in response to this "mod" and adjust things back to where they were(and IMO should be).
ORIGINAL: krash
do you know where the IAt sensor is on an F4i? are they normally easy to get access to on a bike?
I can check it out for you if I can get to it easily. but its still a little chilly right now to be out dicken around for too long
do you know where the IAt sensor is on an F4i? are they normally easy to get access to on a bike?
I can check it out for you if I can get to it easily. but its still a little chilly right now to be out dicken around for too long
I have to agree with 100% of what 65Shelby said...These resistors are rarely linear... I don't have a pic, but I've seen on some IAT sensors resistances drop 5k ohms 20 degrees and 500 ohms in 20 degrees further up in the temp range...Putting a resistor in series with the signal wire will skew the results and vary your A/F alot depending on the temperature outside....Voltage drop is directly related to resistance.. The ECM detects the voltage drop, not the resistance..
HondaPower:: I'm also an Auto Tech... I agree with the theory.. The problem is that...In a high performance vehicle the timing is already advancing to the point of slightspark knock (detonation) then retarding a few degrees repeatibly....The Honda Engineers programmed their timing, injection pulse width for optimal performance during WOT..That's logical marketing...The EPA hasn't taken complete control of the motorcycle industry YET and detuned these bikes from the factory.....Tricking your ECU into thinking it's getting cooler air (ALOT cooler air if the IAT is reading below 100 F) is BAD for your bike...
It will advance your timing and increase injector pulse width...Adding more fuel and advancing timing to an engine with less dense air WILL cause damage, period....
Simply physics, When hot air compresses in a cylinder it will expand....When cooler air compresses in a cylinder it will expand EVEN more....The engineers spend millions of dollars calculating these #'s and adjusting A/F and injector pulse width accordingly to increase optimal performance.......The GOAL is to add as much fuel asneeded tocompletely burn the A/f mixture.....Remember when you advance timing you are advancing valve opening/closing times and injector/ plugfiring times......
Doing this will do lots of things...
It will fire the plug to soon, the A/F won't burn evenly..
It will add to much fuel into the mixture....Without enough air there will be extra fuel left over....add that with the timing that is advanced (The exhaust valve hasn't opened yet) and you WILL get some detonation....Detonation is not just a word that could harm your engine. More detonation than what the ECU has already programmed your fuel trims for is bad for your engine...What happens is the unburned fuel explodes causing higher and even hotter combustion temperaures......
Tricking your engine int
#65
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Cheers CBR rider
Actually reading the physics side of the outcome of changing the ecu makes me realise just how happy i am with my bike already
and having spent £22 its not such a massive waste of money !
Whats the difference with this unit i bought and a power commander though ?
Think i will stick to just changing to a k and n filter or something similar
Are these easy to replace does anybody know ?
Actually reading the physics side of the outcome of changing the ecu makes me realise just how happy i am with my bike already
and having spent £22 its not such a massive waste of money !
Whats the difference with this unit i bought and a power commander though ?
Think i will stick to just changing to a k and n filter or something similar
Are these easy to replace does anybody know ?
#67
#68
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Hmmmm,
I'll take the errors in-consideration,
Honestly i think it's okay to be worry about getting ripped of,
but i think some of you guys are to paranoid, and not understand that the Power Commander might not be any diffferent then $32.5 dollars worth of resisters marked up 20 times, once again there might be considerable doubt in wether my friend did the dyno correctly, but i believe him, also i realize now that any after market mods for something like a 600 might just be a waste, So soon i'll get my full licence and upgrade to a 1000 just chuck on a turbo and maybe some NO2 and stop wasting my time with performance mods![Big Grin](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Thanks for you input everybod
![Big Grin](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'll take the errors in-consideration,
Honestly i think it's okay to be worry about getting ripped of,
but i think some of you guys are to paranoid, and not understand that the Power Commander might not be any diffferent then $32.5 dollars worth of resisters marked up 20 times, once again there might be considerable doubt in wether my friend did the dyno correctly, but i believe him, also i realize now that any after market mods for something like a 600 might just be a waste, So soon i'll get my full licence and upgrade to a 1000 just chuck on a turbo and maybe some NO2 and stop wasting my time with performance mods
![Big Grin](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Thanks for you input everybod
![Big Grin](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#69
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Akula,
You have three posts on this board. You on a RR and have zero posts in the RR forum.. You only have posts in this thread and that's it. I say that this item is B.S. and you just throw up your hands and say you're going to buy a 1000...
There are other things you can do... A power commander is different than this item..First off the power commander can be used to tune your bike with aftermarket parts...The ECM is already tuned for performance on a stock set-up...I don't know much about a power commander, so I won't comment on how it works. You're probably right, it probably only costs $50 to make.. The point is that the power commander, if beneficial is worth the price....This item simply is not worth the postage it costs to ship...
If you do truly havea friend that owns a dyno shop, He should have told you this item is not good for your bike... I would also like to see before/after dynos... Your friend should have been able to save the dyno results on his computer..Ask him to put the file on a disk for you..
You have three posts on this board. You on a RR and have zero posts in the RR forum.. You only have posts in this thread and that's it. I say that this item is B.S. and you just throw up your hands and say you're going to buy a 1000...
There are other things you can do... A power commander is different than this item..First off the power commander can be used to tune your bike with aftermarket parts...The ECM is already tuned for performance on a stock set-up...I don't know much about a power commander, so I won't comment on how it works. You're probably right, it probably only costs $50 to make.. The point is that the power commander, if beneficial is worth the price....This item simply is not worth the postage it costs to ship...
If you do truly havea friend that owns a dyno shop, He should have told you this item is not good for your bike... I would also like to see before/after dynos... Your friend should have been able to save the dyno results on his computer..Ask him to put the file on a disk for you..
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Shiffts
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02-21-2012 08:54 PM