Ah, that makes much more sense now... perfect! Beer time?

 

I used to live just the other side of FW just off Marine Creek at Lake Worth not too far from you, nice part of Texas.

 

I went to junior college up there. A lot of area to ride nearby as long as the eather cooporates!

I may have a beer after I finish the rear. I think it'll be the more involved part.

Thansk for your help!

 

Bike is back to factory height. Sitting on it feels so much better!!

For anybody doing this in their garage, it's not too difficult. I have a shop with an overhead beam that made lifting the bike easy so it only took about 30-45 minutes of total work time to do both.
There are better ways, I'm sure, but I didn't have my winch so I had to resort to...ratchet straps!

I did NOT remove either wheel for this.

Front
Tools: Ratchet and 12mm & 14mm sockets
I connected one strap to each side of the top bridge. Got them snug but didn't lift the bike at this time.
Next, I loosened the clip-ons and got them set at the 5mm mark from the top of the fork and tightened them. This is probably the hardest step because you have to get them the right height AND turned correctly so they will key into the top bridge.
The 5mm space plus the thickness of the top bridge will give you 33mm as shown by the service manual, In post #2 there is a pic that Al1040 provided with the spacing/tq settings.
Next I loosened the top bolts on the top bridge - 12mm
Then I loosened the bottom bolts on the lower bridge - 14mm
Cranked the ratchet straps up until they contacted the clip-ons.
Tighten top and bottom bolts to 17 lb/ft and 29 lb/ft respectively.

Rear
Tools - 14mm wrench, 17mm wrench, 8mm allen
I ran the ratchet strap through the passenger pegs then back up to the beam. Put something between the strap and tail faring and tuck it in good, it will move/twist!!
Snug the strap up just enough so the bike is standing on its own but not off the ground. Takes some tension off the suspension.
Undo top nut with the 14mm and 17mm wrenches but don't take out the bolt yet.
Undo lower nut with the 17mm wrench and 8mm allen wrench.
Now that the nuts are off you can raise/lower the bike until the pressure is off the bolts and they will slide out pretty easily.
Pull the link out.
Transfer the bushings from the lower link to the factory link.
I put the top of the link first - just start the nut, do not tighten it. I figured it would be easier to move the link around from the bottom.
Next, raise/lower the bike with the straps and tap the bottom of the link around until it lines up with the hole. Again, start the nut but don't tighten it.
After both bolts are in and nuts started, lower the bike to the ground under its own weight.
Bounce it up and down a bit to make sure everything moves freely.
Tighten top and bottom bolts. I do not have the torque specs for this but the part they fit into is pretty thick and I don't think it could be compressed with hand tools, so I made them tight.
Bounce it again to make sure everything moves freely.

As Al1040 said above - Have a beer!

 

Great write up! Thanks for sharing.

 

that's low, wouldn't be surprised if on heavy braking the fairing would be touching the mudguard...

 

If you read the thread, Scott91370 has sorted the issue so why would you repeat my post?

 

Seems to be a theme with him/her. I think the last 7+ posts have only been the quote of someone else with the quote tags reomved. kinda odd.

@AdministrationTeam Could you lok at the acount daryel.corran and see if it is a bot?

 

Yes indeed, I had noticed that so thought it was about time to mention it... You had the same thoughts, great minds and all that