K&N air filter installation
#11
RE: K&N air filter installation
I came really close to switch to K&N as well. But then I was told that unless you get a full exhaust system (I only have a hindle slip-on) and get a Power Commander, the K&N will make your bike run a little weird. I don't know much about this so can anybody explain this for me?
#12
RE: K&N air filter installation
ORIGINAL: SquireSCA
And while it is washable, that costs money too for oil and cleaning solution and it takes alot more time to clean, oil and dry it. I would just rather toss in a new stock filter every 5k miles and be done in 20 minutes and get back to riding.
And while it is washable, that costs money too for oil and cleaning solution and it takes alot more time to clean, oil and dry it. I would just rather toss in a new stock filter every 5k miles and be done in 20 minutes and get back to riding.
K&N filter - $40
K&N filter cleaning kit - $10
So....$50 spent & the cleaning kit will clean it at least 5 times (let's say)
Stock filter - $50
Change that 5 times = $250
So spend $50 for a filter/cleaning kit that'll be used roughly or spend $250 on 5 filters.
And then you just would need to spend $10 on another cleaning kit for it to last the time of another 5 stock filters which means....$10 versus $250 again.
Meaning then you would've spent $60 on the K&N setup versus $500 on the stock filters......this would have to be over a LONG period of time & MANY miles, of course.
The math speaks for itself though
I run a Yosh pipe & a K&N filter and no problems at all.
#13
RE: K&N air filter installation
The math speaks for itself, but it is pread over what, 5-7 years?
$250 over half a decade is not worth my time and effort. The K&N usually makes less power on the F4i, and it lets more dirt into the motor, and it takes a lot longer to clean and re-oil the K&N than it takes to just drop a stock filter in and ride off.
There are a ton of articles showing that the F4i actually makes better power with the stock filter.
$250 over half a decade is not worth my time and effort. The K&N usually makes less power on the F4i, and it lets more dirt into the motor, and it takes a lot longer to clean and re-oil the K&N than it takes to just drop a stock filter in and ride off.
There are a ton of articles showing that the F4i actually makes better power with the stock filter.
#14
RE: K&N air filter installation
The K+N doesn't make less power on the F4i, and I'd like to see any dyno sheets that prove that. But it "doesn't" make any more power. The advantage is the life of the filter, the cost, and the fact that it doesn't need a real service for long after 5000 miles. Any takers on the dyno sheet just send me a PM.
#15
RE: K&N air filter installation
I have read many things that say that it makes less power, unless you do a full system and need the extra intake and tune for it.
There are several theories as to why this is, many of them centered on the idea that the K&N creates turbulence in the airbox.
There was also an exhaustive review of air filters and the one that let the most particles and dirt into the motor, was the K&N, or at least it was one of the worst offenders. For me, I don't care about saving $50 a year. It's inconsequential. I would rather have the right filter that keeps junk out of the engine and takes 15 minutes to swap out.
There are several theories as to why this is, many of them centered on the idea that the K&N creates turbulence in the airbox.
There was also an exhaustive review of air filters and the one that let the most particles and dirt into the motor, was the K&N, or at least it was one of the worst offenders. For me, I don't care about saving $50 a year. It's inconsequential. I would rather have the right filter that keeps junk out of the engine and takes 15 minutes to swap out.
#16
RE: K&N air filter installation
ORIGINAL: dwhite645
First, take off both side fairings. Then take off both ram air duct covers, there's two 5mm hex bolts on each one. Next, take off the seat and loosen the two boths that hold the back part of the tank on - only loosen them 1 or 2 full turns, don't take them out. Then completely remove the front two bolts that hold the tank on, right next to the triple tree. Find a prop rod that won't scratch your paint and prop up the front of the tank (12"-15") and make sure it's secure so the tank won't come slamming down. Then, unplug the wiring harness on top of the air box, then remove the bolts that hold the top of the air box on - can't remember how many, but there's a bunch. Then take off the top of the air box and switch out the filter. Then put it all back together (don't forget to plug the wire harness back as it was) and it should all be done. Here's a pic:
This is a photo of everything off except the top of the air box, right under the tank.
[IMG]local://upfiles/4409/176D1E8E62114ED6B78FBAAF1FC00606.jpg[/IMG]
First, take off both side fairings. Then take off both ram air duct covers, there's two 5mm hex bolts on each one. Next, take off the seat and loosen the two boths that hold the back part of the tank on - only loosen them 1 or 2 full turns, don't take them out. Then completely remove the front two bolts that hold the tank on, right next to the triple tree. Find a prop rod that won't scratch your paint and prop up the front of the tank (12"-15") and make sure it's secure so the tank won't come slamming down. Then, unplug the wiring harness on top of the air box, then remove the bolts that hold the top of the air box on - can't remember how many, but there's a bunch. Then take off the top of the air box and switch out the filter. Then put it all back together (don't forget to plug the wire harness back as it was) and it should all be done. Here's a pic:
This is a photo of everything off except the top of the air box, right under the tank.
[IMG]local://upfiles/4409/176D1E8E62114ED6B78FBAAF1FC00606.jpg[/IMG]
#17
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