I'll try to keep this short, I have searched and found few similar instances.

Bought a trashed up f4i, wanted a bike to screw around with/learn on etc. other then the Bird, and maybe get some track days on. For various minor issues the bike wasn't able to be started, was informed it ran fine, think you know where this may go.
Got home fixed the various items and hit start, click click, sht, tried rolling it over etc.
Alright coils, spark plugs out, hit crank, yes yes oil everywhere, whew.
Get it started let it look like a two-stroke for a while.
Finally get some time on it, after various footpegs etc, and it makes what I believe to be a valve tick only when warm and above 3k rpm, I believe it continues above this but the D&D is to loud to hear it, and for that matter for me.
Yes I have an APE on the way, but I don't think this is a cam chain noise, its not the BBs in a can noise, its a tick tick that gets louder with the revs and only when warm, and since it was locked up I think I may have toasted a valve?

In my quest to acquire tools to do a valve job, I should probably get a compression tester but any thoughts before winter hits?
Thanks in advance

 

i may very well be wrong about this if the engine was hydro locked while running it could have done all kinds of crazy damage. you could or most likly have a bend rod.

how ever i question if this problem is coming from that. my last bike had a tick to and i had the ape manual tentioner . this bike has has solid lifer i believe that have to be shimmed out ever 16k(?). if you bike has more then 16k on it it very well could be the valves just need to be relashed.

or it could be something else from the hydrolock like a bad wrist pin or piston slap.but i would put my money on it just needing the valves relashed.

 

The valves usually get tighter, not looser. I highly doubt its that. Depending on how loose the cam chainis, it could make all sorts of racket. it was most likely hydrolocked from laying on its side for an extended period of time. That would be why there was oil in the cylinders. You could have lower engine damage but I would stick with the small stuff at first.

 

I had a hydrolocked motor on an F4i from a crash. When I thought about it I was a little more comfortable about not having engine damage when I realized the tip over sensor cut the motor off before any oil/coolant had a chance to lock it up. Somebody here may be more clear on this.

Never any problems after that with same motor.

 

Thanks all,
Its a low mileage bike, 9k, but an '01
I agree it was likely on its side for a while one of the cylinders had much more oil then then the others, and it likely cut out quickly with the tip sensor.
I guess, I was most worried about trying to start the bike when it was locked, that I may have bent stuff then.

I'll keep checking back and update when I get the APE installed.

 

how would valve train become tighter? the only place i could see this happening is if the valves were seated properly. the wear and tear on parts would dictate that things would become loser not tighter. thought seeing as its got 9k on the bike i doubt its a problem.

i go through the whole engine like i stated you never know what could have happened.

 

I'm very happy to wrap this thread up with the APE fixed the ticking, it probably could use a valve job, but no more noise, I just had a bad feeling it was something else because it only happened when it got warm
Thanks all