How do you guys lift your bikes?!?!
#21
Thanks Ern. I can agree with the 2x6 in the attic, I just went with what spare wood I had in the shed. But the beefier the better. And good point Definitely get some heavy duty eyelet bolts. They aren't expensive so no excuse. All-thread would work too, I just liked the clean look of the eyelets, and that it keeps the straps from sliding when you first jack up the bike. Thanks for the addition Ern. Anything else I forgot to mention keep it coming :-)
#22
#24
This is an excellent thread. I have bicycles suspended from the ceiling of our garage (through the drywall and into the ceiling joists) using "J" hooks, but didn't think of the idea of a 2x4 or 2x6 spread across several of the joists to suspend the motorcycle. Since the room above our garage is finished, I don't have the option of running a brace on the top of the joists, but I could use a 2x8 or 2x10 with 3 or 4 lag bolts going into the joists and long enough to span several joists.
#25
More than several joists, be sure to span at least 4 or 5.
If you're mounting on the bottom-side only, I would use a 2x12. Double lagbolts
about 2" in from the edge (7 1/2" apart) into each joist. Either, 1/4 or 3/8 lagbolts,
pilot the holes into the joists. Other option, double stack a 4x4 of 3/4 plywood to
the ceiling, with lots of 2 1/2 dry-wall screws. That actually distributes the load better.
Just be sure to use big washers on the top side of either. Do not use screw-in
eye-bolts, use washers and nuts, through whichever you choose.
Ern
If you're mounting on the bottom-side only, I would use a 2x12. Double lagbolts
about 2" in from the edge (7 1/2" apart) into each joist. Either, 1/4 or 3/8 lagbolts,
pilot the holes into the joists. Other option, double stack a 4x4 of 3/4 plywood to
the ceiling, with lots of 2 1/2 dry-wall screws. That actually distributes the load better.
Just be sure to use big washers on the top side of either. Do not use screw-in
eye-bolts, use washers and nuts, through whichever you choose.
Ern
#27
More than several joists, be sure to span at least 4 or 5.
If you're mounting on the bottom-side only, I would use a 2x12. Double lagbolts
about 2" in from the edge (7 1/2" apart) into each joist. Either, 1/4 or 3/8 lagbolts,
pilot the holes into the joists. Other option, double stack a 4x4 of 3/4 plywood to
the ceiling, with lots of 2 1/2 dry-wall screws. That actually distributes the load better.
Just be sure to use big washers on the top side of either. Do not use screw-in
eye-bolts, use washers and nuts, through whichever you choose.
Ern
If you're mounting on the bottom-side only, I would use a 2x12. Double lagbolts
about 2" in from the edge (7 1/2" apart) into each joist. Either, 1/4 or 3/8 lagbolts,
pilot the holes into the joists. Other option, double stack a 4x4 of 3/4 plywood to
the ceiling, with lots of 2 1/2 dry-wall screws. That actually distributes the load better.
Just be sure to use big washers on the top side of either. Do not use screw-in
eye-bolts, use washers and nuts, through whichever you choose.
Ern
Thanks for the tips.
#28
Probably don't need to pilot the screws, if you go this route. use the heavy
deck screws (#8's) and they should pull in fine. If you're breaking a lot as
you secure the first layer to the ceiling joists than you might consider
piloting (or the larger screw).
I would use a 8" screw pattern to secure the plywood with, by the way.
Also, do not substitute MDF or particle-board, they don't hold a screw well
enough for what you're going to use it for.
Ern
deck screws (#8's) and they should pull in fine. If you're breaking a lot as
you secure the first layer to the ceiling joists than you might consider
piloting (or the larger screw).
I would use a 8" screw pattern to secure the plywood with, by the way.
Also, do not substitute MDF or particle-board, they don't hold a screw well
enough for what you're going to use it for.
Ern
#29
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