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Hello, sorry for the long post
I have recently bought a 2002 Honda cbr600 F4i it ran great was a ton of fun to ride. I have been keeping it at my friends house since he has a spare shed that he uses to store his motorcycle in, he turns on my bike and takes it around the block it lets it run for a few minutes when I’m unable to ride for extended periods of time. Recently he turned on the bike, let it idle for a few minutes before taking it around the block and as he was riding it suddenly died in him. He called me to let me know what happened and I spoke with the previous owner about service records and he said he just recently for the fuel pump changed out and that it shouldn’t be the fuel pump. While I am a good with my hands and working on projects, engines and electrical is something that I struggle with. I have narrowed it down to a few possible things that could have been reading about. first is the bank angle sensor, a bad fuel pump and the guy lied to me, an ECU, fuses, a bad kill switch (maybe??).
What we have noticed is that when we go to turn the bike on the fuel pump doesn’t prime, and for some reason now the headlights don’t work but everything else does. ( when I got the bike the blinkers didn’t really work) but besides that everything else is normal.
I’ve been at a stuck here for a minute now and have searched all over and on forums but I figured it was about time I try to get a straight answer lol. I will take any advice or help that I may be provided.
@Rpkrauser Hi and welcome to the forum. Based on the description, a few things to check. Can you tell if the Fuel Cut relay is turning on? It's located on the right side of the bike behind the Rear Cowl. There are 2 relays located there, the rear most one is the Fuel Cut relay. The Engine Stop relay is right next to it. It should be turning on as well. If you put your hand on them you should feel and hear the mechanical click when they turn on. With the Ignition Key switch in the ON position, if you rock the Engine Stop switch On/Off/On, you should be able to hear it. The fuel pump should be priming as well when you hear them engage. This is a start.
I don't think they're bad and very unlikely that both are bad. I think you've got a bad connection someplace. The controlling side of those relays, which is the Bank Angle Sensor or BAS.
Hi there, suggestion is to check the 10pin connector (grey colour) that connects the Front Cowl Sub-Harness to the Main Harness. This connector is very very delicate, if it has been disconnected and connected many times, the female pins can end of breaking. I had an issue with the same connector but for different reason, it had grease all over the pins and it was causing continuity issues. Look at my post for an image of the connector. This connector has many functions linked to it. Wiring diagram below showing the connector.
@Rpkrauser I agree with @LightningAge . I think doing some troubleshooting as to why they are not be "told" to turn on. A simple lose connection could do that easily. But replacing the relays would not fix that. This is where being comfortable with using a meter (VOM) to follow the voltages through the wiring diagram and see where the control signal is being lost/interrupted.
@Rpkrauser OK, so lets see how that circuitry works. Do you have a copy of the F4i Honda Shop manual? If not, you need one, so get one. Right now you need a copy of the wiring diagram.
If you follow the wire from Fuse D it's a White/Black wire providing 12v DC. That wire goes up towards the front of the bike. Part of it splits off and goes to the Run/Stop Switch on the right handle bar. If it is in the Run position, that switch provides power to the Starter switch, and, is the 12v DC supply side of the Engine Stop Relay via a Black wire. The other part of the White/Black coming from Fuse D, goes up to the nose, passing through the 12 Pin Gray connector (that @LightningAge circled in Red above) and then to a 3 Pin Black connector where the Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) sensor is. This powers a Latch-Up circuit and essentially provides a ground for the Engine Stop Relay. The Red/White wire, through the 3 Pin Black connector, then back through the 12 Pin Gray connector (2nd time where a bad connection can stop the flow) back to the Coil side (meaning the ground side) of the Engine Stop Relay.
It might take a few times reading that description to absorb it.
Put the RED lead of your meter on the Black wire of the Engine Stop Relay, BLACK lead on a ground screw somewhere on the bike. You should have 12v DC. Then check the Red/White wire. You should have essentially 0v DC. If you read 12v DC, then the BAS is not providing a Ground for it.