bit of a low idle and bogging?
#11
Nah, cam sensor never goes bad. Idiots above never found actual problem and just desperately shotgun huge pile of parts. Problem is 2-fold with that approach. By replacing perfectly-working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts changes nothing and symptoms persist because actual problem is elsewhere. Then they often use 3rd-party aftermarket parts which are notorious for being low-quality, especially electronics. With many parts being defective right out of box and needs to br tested and confirmed functional before installing. For that effort, it’s easier to just measure parts already on bike to see id they’re good or bad bedore wasting time and money installing brand-new parts to replace perfectly-working parts that aren’t bad.
If you suspect cam sensor, just go through manual’s procedure for measuring and testing it. Then you’ll know for sure if it’s good or bad. Most likely it’s fine.
Your problem is most likely TPS calibration or vacuum leaks in 5-way Tee going to MAP sensor. Leaks usually gets worse with warm-up as rubber hoses soften and open up leak more. Simple enough to measure MAP output at idle & 3000rpm with cold and hot engine. Simple look at these 4 numbers will tell you exactly what’s wrong and how to fix it.
If you suspect cam sensor, just go through manual’s procedure for measuring and testing it. Then you’ll know for sure if it’s good or bad. Most likely it’s fine.
Your problem is most likely TPS calibration or vacuum leaks in 5-way Tee going to MAP sensor. Leaks usually gets worse with warm-up as rubber hoses soften and open up leak more. Simple enough to measure MAP output at idle & 3000rpm with cold and hot engine. Simple look at these 4 numbers will tell you exactly what’s wrong and how to fix it.
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JayBoCC2
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06-23-2009 10:23 PM