okay, I need some help now.

I got my shims today, put them in the bike, got the cams in, lines up the IN and EX correctly marks and I had the crankshaft set on the line next to the T like you're supposed to. Here's where things got messy, I go to put the cam holder plate in and I take it real slow tightening it up bolt by bolt real easy (mostly in the numbered order, but when they were all super loose I didn't see the point in going by the order) and once the bolts started getting a little resistance I would go about 1/4-1/2 a turn on each in order. Once they started to get tight, I got my torque wrench and started to torque them, but here's where the messy happens; I had a brain fart during the conversion from nm to ft-lb (my torque wrench doesn't have a nm setting) and tightened up bolt one to 15 ft-lbs when it should have been at bout 9-10. No problem though, it clicked, then still not realizing I had the torque set too high I went on and did bolt 2. Bolt 2 didn't take so well to the extra torque though, and it snapped. Well f$%@. So I ran to the hardware store and got a bolt that was the same size/length and go to put it in (now set at 9 ft/lbs) and the damn thing just wouldn't click. It just keeps going in, it won't click. The other 18 all clicked super easy since 9 ft/lbs isn't very much. Whatever, I did the rest of them and reinstalled the cct and set it to a preliminary tension (I have an APE unit). I went to go turn the motor by hand and lo and behold it won't turn freely.

Now I'm 90% sure I have the motor timed correctly, it's pretty easy. I had the mark by the T on the crank shaft lined up with the little arrow thing down there and I had the IN and EX marks set flat, took some dicking around with the cams and cam chain to get them right but I did. So do you think it could be that the cam holder plate is tweaked or not seated right or something and that's causing the engine to not turn freely? and If so do you think it's caused any damage to the plate or my cams just being put in wrong, not run or anything. I turned the motor very slowly by hand and barely turned it at all before it wouldn't go anymore.

 

OK, it looks like you got same thing that happened to me before.
What a coincidence. See attached pic, that where the TDC should be. I believe you've got it right.

First, are you sure the bolt is 100% same spec as original? I won't risk it. Use the genuine Honda bolt. Part No. 90019-MA6-000

Second, it is important that you do the tightening according to the number order. A bit of angle will cause the cover to break.

Third, when you close the cover, did you put enough lubricant to the camshaft?

Fourth, when you turn it by hand, have you got the spark plugs on? If yes, take them off. The built chamber pressure will make it hard to turn.

Goodluck, and don't forget to measure the clearance again before you put everything back on. I had to do 3x before I got it right.

 

Derp. Well now I know why it won't turn thanks to your picture, I used the wrong mark on the crankshaft. I used the mark by the T not the little one all by itself... well that's an easy fix I guess. As for using a genuine honda bolt, do you really think I should? That's another few days to a week for the part to ship and I'm trying to get this bike running so I can get rid of it

 

I wouldn't risk it if I were you. I waited 10 days for my bolt.

 

I'm gonna head to a local screw/bolt place here and have them get me one of the same grade/class and it should work. It's not feasible for me to wait that long for one bolt

 

OKAY good news and bad news... Good news is I put it together right this time, got a bolt of the same grade and almost identical style from a professional screw/fastener business, engine spins freely, but I checked my valves and ONE OF THEM IS STILL OUT OF SPEC UGH. The other 7 are all .2mm +/- .03mm. Well I guess I'll redo it tomorrow... might as well do it right the first time (well technically the 3rd) and not have to go back and do it over later. Or you know, burn up a valve.

 

That's normal I guess. I read someone posted that he did 5x before he got it right.

You need to have the right shims. Measure before putting it there.

Is that one loose or tight?

 

WOOOOH I did it, I finished her! She runs like a charm now, got a couple new shims to fix both of the valves that were still out of adjustment and we were good to go.

I got smart too, rather than taking the cam out I just lifted it up which gave me enough room to remove the bucket and put it back in and that way I didn't have to retime the motor a 3rd time.

It was a little nerve wracking hitting the starter button for the first time... but the bike started better than it ever has before! Man my valves must have been out of adjustment for a really long time lol. Synced my TBs and she's as smooth as butter now.

Only bad thing is that I made my APE CCT a little too tight so it has some whine to it now, going to have to readjust it tomorrow and then the next day I'm taking the bike on a long trip so that will be the true test for it. Hopefully good ol' Honda reliability will kick in, I may reconsider selling the bike now lol. But I have been yearning for a dual sport/supermoto.... hmmm decisions decisions.

Thanks to everyone in this thread who helped, especially Kopi Ko who I wouldn't have been able to do this without! It's been a long haul and now I'm 99% done!

 

You're welcome bro.
And btw, did you fix your idle problem?

 

Yeah I'm pretty sure the out of spec valves were causing the cold idle issue. I need to readjust the wax unit though since I messed with it earlier I messed with the adjustment so the rpms only kick up to about 1500 on cold start up, which is actually kind of nice since 3000 is overkill in the summer but oh well, easy fix along with readjusting my cct.