Aftermarket Rotors?
#1
Aftermarket Rotors?
Looking for your input on these ebay rotors.
Quality? or to good of pricing to be true?
Quality? or to good of pricing to be true?
#3
^thats what id say too, Either way avoid them but....isnt the point of wave rotors so they dont warp? I wouldnt be willing to risk my front brakes on cheap chinese parts to find out. I think id be more worried about those rivets or whatever holding the rotor to the inner part breaking or tearing or something and having the rotor separate.
#4
I have heard that some of those Chinese rotors are actually not bad at all. Personally there is absolutely no way I'm paying over $500 for a set of rotors. I remember I had a buddy who raced grand-am who used to take me me to trackdays (cars) and most of the guys said they ordered the cheapest rotors ($20/set) and just replaced them more often.
Anyway back to the warpage thing. IT IS EXTREMELY RARE to warp a rotor. The vast majority of the time, there is brake pad material stuck to the rotor which causes the inconsistencies in thickness or the carrier itself may be bent/damaged. Frankly I wouldn't mind giving these rotors a shot if you're looking for a cosmetic upgrade, but frankly, if you're just looking for better feel, a new master, ss lines, and better pads would be better in just about every way.
Anyway back to the warpage thing. IT IS EXTREMELY RARE to warp a rotor. The vast majority of the time, there is brake pad material stuck to the rotor which causes the inconsistencies in thickness or the carrier itself may be bent/damaged. Frankly I wouldn't mind giving these rotors a shot if you're looking for a cosmetic upgrade, but frankly, if you're just looking for better feel, a new master, ss lines, and better pads would be better in just about every way.
#5
^thats what id say too, Either way avoid them but....isnt the point of wave rotors so they dont warp? I wouldnt be willing to risk my front brakes on cheap chinese parts to find out. I think id be more worried about those rivets or whatever holding the rotor to the inner part breaking or tearing or something and having the rotor separate.
it'd be mostly cosmetic. I already have ss lines and decent pads. I've going to do a 954 master cylinder switch when I installed the ss lines but couldn't find one at a decent price at the time.
#6
#7
I have heard that some of those Chinese rotors are actually not bad at all. Personally there is absolutely no way I'm paying over $500 for a set of rotors. I remember I had a buddy who raced grand-am who used to take me me to trackdays (cars) and most of the guys said they ordered the cheapest rotors ($20/set) and just replaced them more often.
Anyway back to the warpage thing. IT IS EXTREMELY RARE to warp a rotor. The vast majority of the time, there is brake pad material stuck to the rotor which causes the inconsistencies in thickness or the carrier itself may be bent/damaged. Frankly I wouldn't mind giving these rotors a shot if you're looking for a cosmetic upgrade, but frankly, if you're just looking for better feel, a new master, ss lines, and better pads would be better in just about every way.
Anyway back to the warpage thing. IT IS EXTREMELY RARE to warp a rotor. The vast majority of the time, there is brake pad material stuck to the rotor which causes the inconsistencies in thickness or the carrier itself may be bent/damaged. Frankly I wouldn't mind giving these rotors a shot if you're looking for a cosmetic upgrade, but frankly, if you're just looking for better feel, a new master, ss lines, and better pads would be better in just about every way.
One thing that can happen quite often with aluminum cast wheels is that corrosion forms behind the bolt holes, pushing the centre of the disc out and making it runout. Take the disc off and check for corrosion, remove any that you find. Also check that the rivets holding the disc outer to the inner spin freely - simplest way is to put an M12 nut and bolt through, tighten it up then use a spanner on the head to turn spin the rivets, use some brake cleaner if they are sticky and work them back and forth.
In the event that they ARE warped, chinese discs are ****ing ****, you might get lucky and not warp them quickly but that tends to be the exception rather than the rule.
Oem are your best bet, have a look at a breakers/eGay and buy some second hand if you can't afford new, if they are warped send them back and try another set.
Wavy discs look gay and offer no benefit on a road bike.
Last edited by DonnyBrago; 02-15-2012 at 05:13 PM.
#9
I have heard that some of those Chinese rotors are actually not bad at all. Personally there is absolutely no way I'm paying over $500 for a set of rotors. I remember I had a buddy who raced grand-am who used to take me me to trackdays (cars) and most of the guys said they ordered the cheapest rotors ($20/set) and just replaced them more often.
Anyway back to the warpage thing. IT IS EXTREMELY RARE to warp a rotor. The vast majority of the time, there is brake pad material stuck to the rotor which causes the inconsistencies in thickness or the carrier itself may be bent/damaged. Frankly I wouldn't mind giving these rotors a shot if you're looking for a cosmetic upgrade, but frankly, if you're just looking for better feel, a new master, ss lines, and better pads would be better in just about every way.
Anyway back to the warpage thing. IT IS EXTREMELY RARE to warp a rotor. The vast majority of the time, there is brake pad material stuck to the rotor which causes the inconsistencies in thickness or the carrier itself may be bent/damaged. Frankly I wouldn't mind giving these rotors a shot if you're looking for a cosmetic upgrade, but frankly, if you're just looking for better feel, a new master, ss lines, and better pads would be better in just about every way.
As for a motorcycle, I dont know, they look a little more complicated with the rivets
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