Regulator rectifier (R/R) problem solved
#111
07-10-2023, 04:13 PM
RR
Message from Sand.Man:
I would like to merge this thread with the other charging system troubleshooting thread I created. I will do this after I finish moving all threads to their designated sub-forum.
There's a lot of threads about troubleshooting RR, but it's hard to find info on where to buy a good replacement. So here' my story. If you're not into long stories just skip to next message for usefull links.
I bought my 1991 cbr F2 in May 2006 with 16,000. I knew that R/R was a weak spot, so when I had my battery die on me AFTER a ride in October 2006, I decided to check the regulator/rectifier voltage output first. At idle it was about 12.3, and no matter how high I would rev it up it wouldn't read more than 12.4.
Before blaming the R/R I did the stator check: consistent resistance 0.5 -0.6 between each 3 wires and cosistent AC voltage as well
( about 50V at 5000rpm). I also checked resistance between each stator wire and ground- there was no short. That means stator is good.
I also tried to do reg/rect resistence check according to Clymer manual, but you need a special brand multimeter.
I went to www.electrosport.com to buy replacement ( $110). I installed it and around 5000rpm I would get 14.5 V- good!!
I had my headlight off the bike at that time and I did carburator synch( which includes a lot of idling). I finished that and took the bike for a ride- everything seemed ok. Then, before putting the plastics back I decided to check the R/R voltage again to be sure, and--it was 12.3 at 5000rpm. I was shocked!!! My new Electrosport Reg/rec got fried in one day. I did load it up pretty good by idling without headlights for 15-20 mins while doing carb synch but still!!
I took off R/R and did R/R DIODE TEST according to this ( Page C)
http://www.offwidth.co.uk/bike/gener...lt_finding.pdf
I highly recommend this troubleshooting chart.
I found that one of the diodes was bad.
I called electrosport and since my unit has a warranty they agreed to exchange it for me. Later I found out that you can put a suzuki gsxr unit, so I cancelled my elecrtosport reg/rect and they refunded my money( except for shipping).
I bought a 2003-2004 gsxr R/R off ebay for $20.
It has 5 wires, like honda but the connector is different.
Identifying wires is easy:
Honda Suzuki
3 white( alternator) 3 black
1 Red ( positive)1 black/red
1 green( negative)1 black/white
I cut off both connectors and soldered the wires, since I heard the connectors are a part of the problem anyway( they create a lot of resistence and my cause R/R to burn)
Suziki R/R is much bigger than honda unit, and since I'm kinda a perfectionist I removed all the bolts that attach the plate through which R/R is mounted to the frame. I drilled 2 new holes, so that new suzuki gsxr R/R seats perfectly, I also used CPU heat grease between the plate, R/R and frame( just in case). Suzuki Unit fits perfectly and has enough clearance for plastics and seat. It does seem to give out a lot of charge right off idle and then taper off to 14.5 as rpms increase.( 12.3 at idle 14.8 at 2300 rpm 14.5 at 5000)
I also installed a 5 function digital voltmeter. http://www.casporttouring.com/store/...de=Electronics
I attached it to the speedometer lig
I would like to merge this thread with the other charging system troubleshooting thread I created. I will do this after I finish moving all threads to their designated sub-forum.
There's a lot of threads about troubleshooting RR, but it's hard to find info on where to buy a good replacement. So here' my story. If you're not into long stories just skip to next message for usefull links.
I bought my 1991 cbr F2 in May 2006 with 16,000. I knew that R/R was a weak spot, so when I had my battery die on me AFTER a ride in October 2006, I decided to check the regulator/rectifier voltage output first. At idle it was about 12.3, and no matter how high I would rev it up it wouldn't read more than 12.4.
Before blaming the R/R I did the stator check: consistent resistance 0.5 -0.6 between each 3 wires and cosistent AC voltage as well
( about 50V at 5000rpm). I also checked resistance between each stator wire and ground- there was no short. That means stator is good.
I also tried to do reg/rect resistence check according to Clymer manual, but you need a special brand multimeter.
I went to www.electrosport.com to buy replacement ( $110). I installed it and around 5000rpm I would get 14.5 V- good!!
I had my headlight off the bike at that time and I did carburator synch( which includes a lot of idling). I finished that and took the bike for a ride- everything seemed ok. Then, before putting the plastics back I decided to check the R/R voltage again to be sure, and--it was 12.3 at 5000rpm. I was shocked!!! My new Electrosport Reg/rec got fried in one day. I did load it up pretty good by idling without headlights for 15-20 mins while doing carb synch but still!!
I took off R/R and did R/R DIODE TEST according to this ( Page C)
http://www.offwidth.co.uk/bike/gener...lt_finding.pdf
I highly recommend this troubleshooting chart.
I found that one of the diodes was bad.
I called electrosport and since my unit has a warranty they agreed to exchange it for me. Later I found out that you can put a suzuki gsxr unit, so I cancelled my elecrtosport reg/rect and they refunded my money( except for shipping).
I bought a 2003-2004 gsxr R/R off ebay for $20.
It has 5 wires, like honda but the connector is different.
Identifying wires is easy:
Honda Suzuki
3 white( alternator) 3 black
1 Red ( positive)1 black/red
1 green( negative)1 black/white
I cut off both connectors and soldered the wires, since I heard the connectors are a part of the problem anyway( they create a lot of resistence and my cause R/R to burn)
Suziki R/R is much bigger than honda unit, and since I'm kinda a perfectionist I removed all the bolts that attach the plate through which R/R is mounted to the frame. I drilled 2 new holes, so that new suzuki gsxr R/R seats perfectly, I also used CPU heat grease between the plate, R/R and frame( just in case). Suzuki Unit fits perfectly and has enough clearance for plastics and seat. It does seem to give out a lot of charge right off idle and then taper off to 14.5 as rpms increase.( 12.3 at idle 14.8 at 2300 rpm 14.5 at 5000)
I also installed a 5 function digital voltmeter. http://www.casporttouring.com/store/...de=Electronics
I attached it to the speedometer lig
#112
07-11-2023, 12:40 PM
Senior Member
Best to get modern series-circuit RR. This will lower load & heat on stator and wiring to not burn up connector between stator & RR.
Look for Polaris #4012941 AND SH775 markings to get genuine used genuine item.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275177570141
Same with GSX-R unit, make sure it's used OEM item, not countrefeit aftermarket copy.
Then get connector kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224807232421
Works so, so much better than any OEM shunt-circuit unit.
And clip off connectors between stator & RR and connect straight through with proper western-union/linesman know, solder and adhesive heat-shrink tubing. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. Don't pre-tin larger stranded wires, too difficult to tie into knot.
Look for Polaris #4012941 AND SH775 markings to get genuine used genuine item.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275177570141
Same with GSX-R unit, make sure it's used OEM item, not countrefeit aftermarket copy.
Then get connector kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224807232421
Works so, so much better than any OEM shunt-circuit unit.
And clip off connectors between stator & RR and connect straight through with proper western-union/linesman know, solder and adhesive heat-shrink tubing. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. Don't pre-tin larger stranded wires, too difficult to tie into knot.
Last edited by dannoxyz; 07-11-2023 at 12:45 PM.
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