Lost...!!!!!
Mine had the same problem, my r/r plug brunt out just changed plug.. and still acting weird. I took off the pulse generator cover and noticed my cam cain guide was split in two and chain was off timing marks. I replaced chain and both guides timed it up started ran like new that was my luck. Take at look yours, remove pulse gen, and valve cover see if all youre marks are lining up if you need a manual i have an adobe f2 manual i can send you.
Dustin
Dustin
Mine had the same problem, my r/r plug brunt out just changed plug.. and still acting weird. I took off the pulse generator cover and noticed my cam cain guide was split in two and chain was off timing marks. I replaced chain and both guides timed it up started ran like new that was my luck. Take at look yours, remove pulse gen, and valve cover see if all youre marks are lining up if you need a manual i have an adobe f2 manual i can send you.
Dustin
Dustin
Nice part is that you don't need a running bike to do compression. Get that done first. Please... it will answer a ton of questions.
After that, if the compression passes, you might just want to get a new R/R just to be safe. Stuff melting is not a good thing.
Stop squirting starter fluid in it, there is no point. If you crank it for 30 seconds, and check your plugs, and they are wet, you know you are getting fuel.
You are complicating things by doing all this random stuff... I sent you the PM that explained how simple engines are and what you should do.
Fuel/air+Compression+Spark = running engine. may not run great, but it WILL run with those 3 things. You checked for spark (and checked for firing order), check for wet plugs(fuel), and check compression. Simplify your testing and life will be far more easy.
Last edited by Dissevered; Feb 5, 2011 at 09:34 PM.
This is why I said to do a compression test. If your chain is off, you will get crap compression.
Nice part is that you don't need a running bike to do compression. Get that done first. Please... it will answer a ton of questions.
After that, if the compression passes, you might just want to get a new R/R just to be safe. Stuff melting is not a good thing.
Stop squirting starter fluid in it, there is no point. If you crank it for 30 seconds, and check your plugs, and they are wet, you know you are getting fuel.
You are complicating things by doing all this random stuff... I sent you the PM that explained how simple engines are and what you should do.
Fuel/air+Compression+Spark = running engine. may not run great, but it WILL run with those 3 things. You checked for spark (and checked for firing order), check for wet plugs(fuel), and check compression. Simplify your testing and life will be far more easy.
Nice part is that you don't need a running bike to do compression. Get that done first. Please... it will answer a ton of questions.
After that, if the compression passes, you might just want to get a new R/R just to be safe. Stuff melting is not a good thing.
Stop squirting starter fluid in it, there is no point. If you crank it for 30 seconds, and check your plugs, and they are wet, you know you are getting fuel.
You are complicating things by doing all this random stuff... I sent you the PM that explained how simple engines are and what you should do.
Fuel/air+Compression+Spark = running engine. may not run great, but it WILL run with those 3 things. You checked for spark (and checked for firing order), check for wet plugs(fuel), and check compression. Simplify your testing and life will be far more easy.
Last edited by F2Resurrection; Feb 5, 2011 at 09:39 PM.
When you say it is on, do you mean that when you turn the lever, it moves freely all the way and that each choke valve on the carburetor is opened?
When I got my F2 which has not been started in 4 years, it would crank but not start. What I found was that while I thought I was opening the choke all the way, I was merely pulling the choke cable until it is snug where it connects to the carburetors. I wasn't pulling hard enough on the lever to actually activate the chokes because it felt like the lever would break. I removed the carburetors again and made sure the cable can activate the choke. I also lubed the choke cable so the lever can be pulled with ease. The bike started right up.
If you were able to start your bike with starter fluid, I would check the choke first.
When I got my F2 which has not been started in 4 years, it would crank but not start. What I found was that while I thought I was opening the choke all the way, I was merely pulling the choke cable until it is snug where it connects to the carburetors. I wasn't pulling hard enough on the lever to actually activate the chokes because it felt like the lever would break. I removed the carburetors again and made sure the cable can activate the choke. I also lubed the choke cable so the lever can be pulled with ease. The bike started right up.
If you were able to start your bike with starter fluid, I would check the choke first.
my f2 petcock just arrived in the mail today... when i get home ima hook it up and see what happens... i bought a gsxr r/r last week... but ima hook my petcock up first....
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