Just got back from Myrtle Beach Bike Week where while i was there i was stupid and pulled a huge NO NO tried doing a burn out with my gurl on the back and a really hot and sticky michelin pilot power and just ended up smoking the clutch...it tightend up and i had to back the perch and clutch cover adjustments all the way out just to put some slack back in the line/lever...but it seemed to slip a little the other day when i was getting on it hard after having changed the oil...so now i am attempting to take the cover off the clutch and possibly take the clutch apart to check the plates and see if their wasted...however i cannot get the clutch cover off...if someone on here is more knowledgable about this than i am i would greatly appreciate the help...and in advance yes i know i was a Fing moron and should never try to do a burn out with someone on the back thanks mom

 

You will probally need a rubber mallot..I believe there are some dowel pins that align the clutch cover with the cases, as well as the bolts.
Just remove all the bolts ( keep track of which ones went where)..and using the rubber mallot tap on the cover from the top, bottom and sides to make it release...If I were you I would buy new Fibers, Springs, and steel plates and a new gasket also.
Make sure you get the ALL of the old gasket off, and change the oil because the clutch is burned up and contaminating the oil/filter

 

AAAHHHHHHHHHH relief...i finally got the cover off after asking my father the master mechanic for some advice when he got home...the clutch cable and shaft that goes to the basket were all connected and had to be loosend so that when i pulled the cover away the shaft could rotate and not pull out on the clutch rod which free's the plates...the 2 rods r both kind of U shaped so one rotates and pulls the other...anyway after having gotten that apart and taking the springs out and removing all the plates and them looking to be in good condition i finally get to the very last plate set of plates and there is my culprit...the very last friction plate is/was nearly smooth and the steel plate had a worn surface on it from the material building up on it...and there is friction material left inside the basket...even after changing the oil and running it for 2 days...so i will no be replacing it with a barnett clutch...friction plates from erion racing which i can get at a 10% discount for being a HRCA member are only $108...so i will be researching the entire package and prices from here...cleaning the insides out with some good clean solvent...and replacing everything with top of the line components... including heavier springs...as i don't care to do this again or have any further problems...also there is no gasket its just a silicone membrane so i will lightly sand both surfaces and very thinly coat them with silicone...up to this point i have only been running non synthetic honda oil...what other types of oil are people out there using...i was thinking of going with royal purple but am not sure...definatly sticking with non synthetic