ya, the pc has to have a power source. i have the laptop out in the garage with the bike's ignition on when i program it. remember that a slip-on is a slip-on in all reality when considering the fact that the power-commander is a fine tuner. if it were me, i'd go through and try a lot of different maps (all of the slip-ons). just because dynojet makes a map that has the exact same set-up as your bike has, they (dynojet) will even admit the maps are different more so because of a different bike and different set-up conditions - as opposed to the differences between the cans.

as far as the vid goes - i have the pciiir and it looks different. it goes up and down, then sits at the bottom light until i turn over the bike, then it goes up and down at various rpms with what kind of adjustments its making to my ECU's map. it looks like some of the LEDS are screwed up - but i'm not sure since i don't have the same model and i'm not sure if mine does the same thing as a pciii usb. i'd call or email dynojet with your questions and vid and see what they'd say. they're good with customer service.

 

I can tell its a good tuner just by taking a look at the sheet; rpm vs throttle percent, it looks a lot like my EFI Live for my duramax, but this is only a fuel table with throttle vs rpm. Simple compared to my V8 Duramax diesel where you have approx 20 different tables and they're all related.

I'll have to call/email dynojet and ask them whats going on.

Thanks Conrice for all the info, much appreciated.

 

no problem man

 

The bike shouldn't run if the PC3 isn't on, should it? I would remove the pc and see how it runs. I can't see ever putting one on my bike, it runs so good with the stock map and my cut down pipe. I have a pc5 on my buell, but only because it ran so bad below 4k rpms and the dyno tune really helped with surging issues.

You need to measure the chain in a few spots and I'm pretty sure you want to measure at the same spot on the chain, like the center, so you aren't including the width of the chain in your measurement. If you push the chain upward and take a measurement at the top of the link, then push it down and take a measurement at the bottom of the link, then your freeplay will include the 1/2 inch width of the chain(chain width will vary and i did not actually measure mine)

 

Removed the PC3 and drove it for a half hour last night, a little less snap in the throttle, but the issue of running bad and dieing at idle is gone, also it idles smoother and throttle response is smoother from 2500-4000. I'll try updating the firmware and try uploading the map made for the yoshi half pipe, re-install the PC3 and go for another drive, if the PC3 is bad thats too bad, but no harm done I didn't buy it.

 

Does the PC3 have an option to reset the TPS? Might help, might not.

 

No it doesn't on the module, but dynojet told me there is a calibration you can do while the PC3 is hooked up to a laptop and bike and do a tps calibration. I'll be doing that as well. Could just be out of wack...

 

So its been a long time but incase it helps others, if your pc3 is tweaking out and flashing weird lights like in my video I posted you need to calibrate the TPS with a laptop connected and engine at operating temp. I calibrated it and now it sits on the bottom light and goes up when I rev it up. It idles a LOT better because the range that the pc3 uses was like 4120-4290 when the tps is NOT calibrated and when in reality it needs to be calibrated so it shows a range of say 4120-25885.

Now to go test drive!