Only if they look suspect, as you take them out push them through a bit of cardboard to keep them in the pattern that you take out, will save some time and effort later

 

The main journal bolts are torque-to-yield and should be replaced with new bolts once removed. See page 11-12 in the service manual. Since you are doing so much work why risk reusing the old main bolts.

The cylinder head does not have to be removed to split the cases to remove the transmission. Just remove the cams. Good time to replace the cam chain and tensioner

As for the piece of wire its probably from the stator since its copper.

I would recommend sending the transmission out to be undercut while the cases are split. Had mine done by Ray at Xtreme Motorsports in TN for under $250 and even though the trans was worn I didn't have to replace any gears. He had me send it to him for inspection first and once he looked it over he was able to do the undercut on the worn gears. Never had any more missed shifts

https://www.facebook.com/Xtreme-Moto...5434&pnref=lhc

https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-954rr...ission-152834/

 

From the stator, of course, thanks. The stator was definitely damaged. Never even considered it.

I have decided to replace the bolts. I'll use the old ones for bolting down the plastigage then install the new ones for final.

I pulled the crank last night and measured two pistons. I measured quite high from the bottom of the skirt. I really should go oversize pistons (skirts are a mess) but I'm going to stick with the re-ring.

Thanks for the cardboard tip :-)

 

Keep the pictures coming matey , we love "the build"

 

The picture does not do it justice but I finished polishing the crank. I believe it turned out great!
I also moved the transmission shift drum and forks etc to the new lower case.

(Edit: I ended up removing the shift forks shaft and shift forks. This aided in joining the crankcase halves. After the cases were joined I installed the forks and shaft)

 

Good stuff

 

Started on the head. I'm not going too crazy with it ;-)

The crank was polished with 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper then polished by hand with Autosol metal polish.

For the head I have been using Dremel sanding drums and wire wheels then 400/600 wet/dry then polish by hand. Then finish with felt drums on the Dremel. Only thing left to do is lap the valves. I've checked a few so far, guide wear is evident but not really bad!

New OEM parts are in waiting for me. I'm hoping to reassemble soon.

 

Looking good, make sure the passage ways are clear though, dont need a blockage down there

 

Absolutely, too cold right now (we're breaking records) to venture down to the big shop where the parts cleaner is. I'm in the R/C shop at home. I'll take everything down and give it a good cleaning before assembly. I'm getting excited. I'm going to have a running engine soon. One glitch though, new crankcase bolts are on back order!

 

Know what you mean, I'm trying to get some spraying done , had heaters in the workshop but it's still to cold, could do with the right temp for the engine build