Red light on constantly is usually sign of wiring problem at ECU. Unplug ECU, Key ON/start=RUN, measure following at ECU gr connector

1. measure voltage on blk/wht wire, volts = ???
2. measure resistance between grn wire and chassis-grnd, ohms = ???
3. measure resistance between grn/red wire and chassis-grnd, ohms = ???
4. measure resistance between grn/wht wire and chassis-grnd, ohms = ???

 

I haven't had much time to touch the bike. BUT I realized after talking to a buddy about it. That I didn't remember seeing a green indicator light on the dash. Only the red.
went out and checked. Sure as crap NO light.
So right now. Turn the key , lights up,
Flip the kill switch- Fuel Pump primes.
Hit starter Button. - fast turn over
Dash light flashes then is constant.
No fire, if I crack open the throttle. And keep trying. The Gas will end up in the exhaust. And start spitting.
lean the bike over and it finds an opening and leaks out.

With the bike sitting , I have to put the kickstand up, and hold the clutch in . If not , it will.not turn over.

Can this entire issue be the neutral safety switch?

Is there a way to bypass it and see or trick it and make the light and system think its fine.?

Thanks

 

Safety-interloc circuit is made up of:

- clutch switch
- sidestand switch
- neutral switch

ALL of them must be functional in order for ECU to enable spark. So even with green-light ON dash showing neutral-switch is working properly, other switches may still be preventing spark. Such as when you put kickstand down and it kills engine? That's sign of working kickstand/clutch switch. With bad kickstand switch, ECU will think sidestand is down all the time and it won't allow spark.

Kickstand actually gets its ground through clutch-switch. Don't bypass clutch-switch as this will cause ECU to pick some non-optimal idle-only ignition map. Lose you lots of power under normal operating zones.

1. First, get neutral-switch and its wiring working so you see green-light on dash when in neutral. May be disconnected plug at neutral-switch or diode or on way to dash. Or broken wire. 99.99% of time it's this and 0.01% of time it's bad neutral-switch. Don't waste time & money replacing switch unless you've measured it and confirmed it's bad.

2. Next, get clutch & kickstand switch working properly. When you squeeze clutch or raise kickstand, you should get continuity (0 ohms) to chassis-ground on grn/wht wire at ECU connector?

 

Well. I took a jumper from. The switch contact to the plug. Light came on and I turned it over.

Gas flowing out of exhaust pipe.

 

Woohoo!!! So bike's running?

 

Nope. Only pumping fuel straight out of exhaust .. not even a fart backfire.. :-(

 

As for the service connector under the seat, it's typically used to access the bike's diagnostic mode. You can connect a jumper wire to this connector to read any stored error codes from the ECU. The specific procedure might vary depending on the model year and the service manual. But it's also time to relax, who with me wants to visit the world of online casinos, let's go to that casino that<!--td {border: 1px solid #cccccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->https://casinosanalyzer.com/online-c...opian-birr-etb this site tells us. If you have access to a service manual, it should provide you with detailed instructions on how to use the service connector. Remember that diagnosing these kinds of issues can be complex, and sometimes it's best to consult with a professional mechanic or a Honda dealership's service department if you're unable to pinpoint the problem.

 

any luck getting clutch, kickstand and neutral switches working?

As temp troubleshooting test, connect chassis/ground wire to grn/wht wire at ECU
connector. Does it fire sparks and run now?

Also liquid petrol dripping out exhaust may be sign of FPR problem or stuck-open injectors..