Hey guys, need help. So I picked up a bike from a buddy. 1 owner. 929rr 3600miles. Bike doesn't even have a mark, bug guts, rock chip, road grime anywhere. Its trully a mint condition museum piece. But... it wont run.
Short story. My buddy bought the bike from a dealer. Rode it once a year just outside town on old country road. Came home put it away. 8 yrs ago knee surgery gained weight, bike sat. Fuel tank full. Cover on it. In a "well built shed" attached to the back of his garage. Leaning against wall when he pulled it out.
I took my 6X12 utl trailer over. Loaded the bike up and brought it home.
Step 1. Wanted to make sure the bike turns on. Put New battery in it. 12v 8.4ah.
Turned the key. Lights came on. No Fuel prime. And Red. LIght steady.
step 2. Vacuumed 2 gal gas. Tank very clean. But it wasn't full as he stated. " took me a day to soak and get fuel filler Cap open" Hinges on them are known to get stiff. Lubed her up after. Easy as new now.
step 3. Drained oil. Red flag !!!! . Crank Case was all gas. Well He didn't lie..it was full at some point. Left filter off, drain plug out and filler cap off over weekend. My GARAGE stunk horribly of 8 yr old gas for 3 weeks. Ugh. Wife was happy. Lol.
new filter on, cap and drain plugs back and filled with oil.
put into 6 gear and key off, rolled down drive way and let out clutch, turned engine over a few times.
Step 4. Added 1 gal fresh VP 110octane.fuel. and turned key. Lights on. Flipped kill switch. Heard relay click. No pump priming.
no fuel and no spark.
Electrical.
absolutely no corrosion,discolorment, Burns,scratches,anything on the wiring or harnesses.
nothing pulled apart.
replaced all fuses. Checked them all again for current.
swapped headlight relay with both fuel and ignition. Replaced all 3 to make sure.
Took apart key switch to check ignition, pink wire resistor. Its good and dropping volts to 9.4 sending to ecm.
Tested and swapped out fall over sensor . It wasn't bad, but it didn't seem to match the voltage like it should. 2 volts off.
Checked coil connections,and then, Took out plugs, got new ones. It appeared to have burned old gas at some point. Very black,lots of soot and build up.definitely fowled.
added dyelectric gel to connections,fuses,rubber fitting when put back.
Forums I read made comments to about the solid red MIL means Ecu bad .
Got a hold of a complete donor bike. Running. Exact everything, except 38k miles and plastics destroyed. Swapped ECU.
Same results...
I'm stumped.
Suggestions. Please.
Its probably something simple and I'm overthinking it.
also. The service connector under the seat? How or who makes a connection?

 

Lots of things to take care of:

1. diode may not be dropping volts enough, want 9v or less

2. key ON, start RUN, measure voltage at injector connectors

3. key ON, start RUN, measure voltage at ignition-coils

4. measure resistance between fuel-pump relay's activation GND wire and chassis-ground. Ohms = ???

5. measure resistance between engine-stop relay's activation GND wire and chassis-ground. Ohms = ???

 

Did you remove the fuel pump from the tank and inspect it? If you have gas mixed with oil in the crankcase then you have a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (its on left side of fuel rail). When FPR is bad fuel leaks into the vacuum hose which dumps the fuel into cylinders 1&4 where it seeps by the rings into the crankcase.

 

I have not pulled it yet. Good call on the regulator. Since the pump wasn't priming. I was more worried about the electronics.

(If previous owner) kept trying to start it. And the battery died or he waa using a jump pack and quickly removed the power. Would the regulator stay open and then negative ( gravity fill) those cylinders?
thata what I waa thinking..




QUOTE=backdoc;1353817]Did you remove the fuel pump from the tank and inspect it? If you have gas mixed with oil in the crankcase then you have a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (its on left side of fuel rail). When FPR is bad fuel leaks into the vacuum hose which dumps the fuel into cylinders 1&4 where it seeps by the rings into the crankcase.[/QUOTE]

 

These are next on my list. Thank you for the guidance.

 

The FPR is toast from sitting with fuel in it for that long. The fuel pump, filter, and strainer could be very gummed up as well. You will need to remove them for a good cleaning.

Does the engine crank over when you hit the start button?

 

Cranks over like it should.
No prime and no sspark.when turn the key and put kickstand up and flip kill switch.

 

Yup definitely electrical issue with no pump-prime and no spark. Doesn't matter if pump is clogged or not if it doesn't even run.

Before doing those tests listed above, measure following points under ignition-switch, key ON

 

Pink wire was 9 volts after the resistor.
12.4 going in.
The rest would change but 12.4volts. Average.




QUOTE=dannoxyz;1353848]Yup definitely electrical issue with no pump-prime and no spark. Doesn't matter if pump is clogged or not if it doesn't even run.

Before doing those tests listed above, measure following points under ignition-switch, key ON

[/QUOTE]

 

So it's 9v now instead of 9.4v? What's pink-wire voltage at ECU connector itself?

I'm asking because picture obviously shows diode installed backwards and there's absolutely zero way it could be dropping any voltage at all. Unless laws of physics and electronics have changed just for this one bike.

Make those actual measurements #1-4 and we'll go from there based upon what real numbers are... This is 5-minute fix with multimeter, or less...

https://www.circuitbread.com/tutoria...w-does-it-work
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials...multimeter/all