www.hardracing.com has some info on this as well...............ny erion929 thats a cool diagram, ive never seen that before

 

Well I've reset the code, but now I'm getting a solid light... getting ready to take a WOT ride and see if there's a difference.

Stay tooned...

 

Well I've successfully killed my low end.

The HTEV keeps rotating back to a close position, my guess is I need to prop it open somehow... any ideas?

You're leaving it fixed in the wide open position, right?

... I hate this...

 

Tack a couple welds in there, that aughta keep it open

 

How's everyone else keeping it in place... that's what the HASS eliminator does, eh?

PITBIKE, how you keeping yours open, or is the build-up so much that it stays open?

AND - I've tripped the 35 code again... how can I keep that from tripping without replacing the servo motor - any ideas?

grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

I havnt done it but I have heard that you have to disassemble the butterfly valve and flip it around and then reassemble it back together and that's what keeps it open and I hope I'm giving the right information on this and if I'm wrong someone please step in!

 

Um full exhaust eliminates this issue

Only kidding ( i was lucky enough to buy my bike with a full erion). I think the best solution is to gut the HTEV. Even if you weld it in the open position, it will still restrict flow to some extent. I'd say just pull the valve, use a dremel or similar to remove the valve and weld any holes shut.

 

BTW, i think a PC is thes best way to go with this mod (according to the dudes on fireblades.org).

But who knows, the stock ECU might be able to accomodate the added flow once it's reset. Do you reset it the same as you would an OBD-II auto (unplug the battery, let the ECU drain)?

 

Don't know about resetting the ECU, I was talking about the MIL's earlier.

Yeah, I've taken the assembly apart and removed everything that wasn't needed except for the valve itself. I think I would rather tackweld the valve in place as opposed to removing it completely - anyone removed it completely?

I honestly don't see how it could restrict any exhaust from looking at the mechanics. Removing it looks to only add more volume, not less restriction.

In any case, I'm still curious how anyone else is holding it in place... ? Guess I'm just going to be tacking it tomorrow but I'm also still curious about the MIL tripping. I'd like that to stop, too.

[:@]

 

P.S. Flipping the valve doesn't do much since it's going to have at least 180 degrees movement no matter where it's turned to. When it's in it's stock position, 180 degrees translates to full open. Now that it's at full open, 180 translates to CFC (completely ****ing closed, lol).

I don't know any other way of keeping it in place other than to weld it but I'm open to suggestions... ?