my HTEV was sooooo carboned up, it can't move unless it is rotated with a big-*** pliers....so effectively it is stuck open. Plus I removed the cables, so it can't be turned. There are no cables at all, the servo just sits there in mid air with nothing connected to it but the ECU.

I did pull the light this morning after about 100 miles or so, the ECU must have realized the servo was hunting and not finding the right stopping point and triggered it. Now that I know what the light is, not worried about it.

And I have not lost ANY bottom end at all, contrary to what my Honda MMI buddy told me would happen.

 

+1 with Nibb. There's a post I saw when looking for a pic of the guts that said something about flipping the valve. If you got the thing in hand and don't think that will work I'll take your word for it. Weld the SOB then there's no chance of closing. How do they get rid of the light with the Hass Elim?? What about cutting theinternals off and leaving the servo hooked up so it thinks it is moving the valve when theres nothing there? I still haven't seen the guts so might be talking out of me ****. Keep us up Kid.

 

You can only get rid of the light by leaving it plugged into the ECU. And the pulley on theservohas to be turned to a certain position or the ECU will pick that up as being out of positionand give you a light. I believe the set screw on the pulley has to be facing the left side of the bike.

 

So by removing just the cables the ECU will still actuate the servo and not set the code. It shouldn't know the cables have been removed. There's no sensor on the exhaust valve itself right??

 

Correct, the ECU will still send a signal to the servo to move it to a set position, but if you remove the cables to the HTEV, it won't turn that. The HTEV is a straight forward machined part with no other sensors.

The best way I can explain it is this: The ECU tells the servo motor to rotate to a position at 3000 rpm and 7000 rpm, when it does, the pulley on the servo pulls the cables to the HTEV and flapper in the air box, moving them to a specific position.From 0 to 3000 rpm, the HTEV valve is at position that allows the 4 header pipes to flow air into 2 holes in the body of the HTEV and then into the midpipe. At 7000 rpm the ECU tells the servo to move to another position, pulling the cables again...which is supposed to open the flapper in the air box completely and rotate the HTEV to the full open position (the four header pipes flow thru 4 holes in the HTEV which then go into the midpipe.

With mine, the HTEV is in the full open position, no cables and the flapper is completely removed. Very simple to do.

 

I get all that. My question is why did your light come on, why was a code set? If the servo is still functioning it shouldn't know the difference. Unless! It is picking the change up in the airbox, and the high/low range of the sensor is not making sense with the other sensors to the prom( or the ecu, guess we don't really have a prom). I don't know, I don't have a schematic or could probably figure out how to trick it. I have an Erion bolt on. If I was to do this mod I wonder if running an Erion full exhaust map would keep from losing low end. I would be afraid of that because in essence your minimizing backpressure, then I'd have to stuff that tater back in the hole, haha. Maybe pull the cables and tie off the valve open just for some seat of the pants runs and see what happens.

 

Servos are positional, so if it isn't in the right position it will throw a code. When the bike is off,my servo spinsfreely because the gear is stripped and notconnected to anything by cable. As soon as power is applied you can feel the servo running with your fingers and it stays there until the ECU tells it to move.

I have a Two Bros bolt on and with the opened up HTEV, I would think a full exhaust map would be best. To try it out, just unhook the HTEV cables and leave them hanging there, open up the valve full (works best to just take it out and look at it to understand it), and see how she runs.

 

Right. So since mine isn't stripped off theoretically it should spin to the right position and not throw the code. Poor mans full exhaust. I just don't want a light and don't want to waste the time if it will hurt or fail to improve response and/or power. Probably overthinking the result from the get-go.

 

Well I got mine wedged open and it runs great. Awesome in fact, and it does have a different sound, but it's not from the exhaust, from what I can hear. It'scoming fromthe HTEV valve and it makes kind of a neat growl.

Anyway, got my camera mount too - getting ready to go get some petro, gonna shoot a quick vid cause I haven't used it in so long I need some practice, lol.

Stay tooned...

P.S. I would still like to silve this MIL problem so I'm going to mess with the position of the servo and reset the code tonight and see if it trips is again, my guess is yes. My guess is that if the servo is working correctly - it won't trip the MIL because it's moving where it needs to whether the cables are attatched or not.

If the servo itself isn't bad, it's going to trip the MIL everytime it's supposed to change positions...

Just my guess.

 

"If the servo itself isbad..."