On both of my 929's I pulled all of the guts out of the air box, plugged up the holes with "Honda bond" and a couple of bolts that thread into the holes perfectly. I completely disconnected all cables, pulled out the exhaust valve, used the metal gasket as a template and cut out a template using sheet metal. Used Honda bond again to put the gasket back on and I left the servo motor (sits on top of the block) in with the cable connected. No errors, no codes, never have I had a problem... ever.

 

You would be better off to leave the HTEV in the exhuast and rotate it 180 degrees then disconnect the cables. Removing it completely leaves openings between the top pipes and the bottom pipes which creates turbulence in the exhaust. There is no gain by removing the HTEV unless you are running a full exhaust, PCIII and custom tune.

 

I take it all the way out because I've found no difference personally. I was originally told to leave it in but wide open so I did, but I also tried taking it out and from personal experience I didn't feel a bit of difference. Whether or not it's true, I don't know... I'm just going by *** in the seat feel.

 

Check out this site directly from Honda. This confirms the reasoning for the flapper and HTEV are environmental and have nothing to do with the performance of the motorcycle.

http://world.honda.com/environment/e...rol/index.html

 

Well...at this point..I'm going to delete the F1 light of opening the HTEV to be full opening exhaust set and air box.

Do I need to have PC3r or USB to be set as full exhaust map and taking out cables..then the F1 light will not on, Am I right?

 

HI

PLease...if you have some pics step by step that would be much helpful for CBR929 menbers....Very appreciate

 

^ yeah, what he said. DIY's are not so great without pics....

 

It's really not that tough. I safety wired my HTEV in the full open position and pinned the flapper in the airbox, Follow the cables and disconnect them. Leave the sensor in place and hooked up. The ECU will think everything is still functioning and the FI light should stay out. You WILL be able to tell if you have the HTEV in the exhaust set wrong, it will run run like crap. Rotate to full stop the other way and BANG!
Like others have said, below 3K rpms is a bit rough but it runs well after that. I haven't put a power commander in, but I would bet that it that the map would help.
This is a REALLY easy mod and well worth the $170 to $200 for a replacement HTEV servo. If you really don't want to attempt it, look on Ebay and buy a used exhaust (with servo) because the servo is next to impossible to find by itself or buy the HASS eliminator.

 

Mines been running kind of crappy lately. I took the valve completely out so it was full open all the time, and I blocked off the side so it wasn't losing air, and it still was really shaky and sputtery around the 6k rpm range. I just put the valve back in tonight and I left it in the half open position. Well see how it runs tomorrow. I tried this with and without the airbox flapper installed. Any input would be great.

I also got a brand new fuel pressure regulator a few days ago so thats nothing.

 

Update.
My FI light did come back on and I can only guess that's it's because the gear on the HTEV servo is stripped and doesn't rotate at all. With the flapper "pinned" open and the exhaust valve rotated and wired to the full open position, it has been running pretty well. Even the sub 3k is tolerable, since most street riding revs take place in higher ranges. When really hitting it, it feels like it pulls better, but that could be because I ran a track day with the HTEV malfunctioning and you *really* can't duplicate track riding on the street. From a completely basic POV, I would say that if you add a PCIII to this setup, you could really make the bike scream. It still seemed way fast to me, so I will probably live with the FI light on until I take it to the track again for a proper evaluation.
This is for a 954, but again from what I've seen, the 929's seem to have the same issues.