CBR 900RR 1993 - 1999 Honda CBR 900RR

Blade FZR Union

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 04-23-2010, 05:52 PM
fastspares's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: LANCS UK
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hey all …. The project is at one of those funny stages with still a lot to do but also some hope that the end could come eventually. This week I’ve done brackets for the radiator, mounted the carbs and essentially plugged in all the electrics to see if it’ll fire up. The carbs are sooo tight that the TPS had to be removed just to get them on. Look at the picture…. Theres really no room for anything else! I’ll have to at some point, figure out an airbox of sorts and see if the tank will fit properly. I might even need a fuel pump as the carbs are high in relation to the bottom of where the tank will sit.
Name:  3.jpg
Views: 109
Size:  41.5 KB

Name:  2.jpg
Views: 222
Size:  41.4 KB
 
  #22  
Old 04-25-2010, 01:27 PM
fastspares's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: LANCS UK
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Few little bling bits that have been sourced for my toy………..



Name:  25042010177.jpg
Views: 327
Size:  174.8 KB

Mychron 3 Gold Dash with Logger options and Gyroscope Track Map Facility
Name:  25042010178.jpg
Views: 140
Size:  222.5 KB

Dynojet Intellishift quick shifter

Looks like this is fast becoming a dedicated track toy ...
 
  #23  
Old 05-03-2010, 03:31 PM
fastspares's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: LANCS UK
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Evening all…
Well its been a busy week and I’ve got a load done plus some planning and head scratching too.
Having laid out the loom and also adding to the mix the logging dash and quick shifter there is a huge
Amount of wiring and hacking into to a loom to shorten it is one thing but it can get really confusing when adding more things and it had to be routed tidy and be accessible too.
I wanted to get on it but I only wanted to do it once!! I printed off the wiring diagram and took the wiring diagram for the quick shifter and logger too and sat on the living room floor for an entire evening just working out what was to be lost and where to splice in the new stuff and the relevant colours......... This was a real nightmare!!! AGGHHHHHHHHHHH The worst bit is that it seems that for all the hard work nothing has actually been done!
Back at the workshop ….. I Connected all the original loom together to be sure it worked so that I knew I had a reliable base to start from.
The bike started OK so everything was taken off so the butchery could begin.
Also the clock mount I’d previously made was no good so a new template was made and welded onto the fairing mount for the dash.


I also realised It might be easier to work from the back of the bike forward as there was less at the back.
First off I needed to list all the channels for the logger so everything was included in the loom and I hopefully didn’t need to open it up again later to add something.
Sensors decided on were:
1.Speed sensor
2.TPS
3.Water temp
4.RPM
5.Brake Pressure
6.Gyroscope
It will also have a gear indicator and voltage monitor.
OK the rear most wiring then bearing in mind that there will only be a daytime MOT ( No lights needed at the back ) will be the speed sensor which uses a magnet positioned somewhere on the wheel.
I’ve made up and mounted a very basic bracket on the swing arm and drilled and fixed the magnet to the rear disc. This does not foul the calliper and also when the bike is crashed the sensor and bracket is likely to be fairly well protected.
 
  #24  
Old 05-03-2010, 03:37 PM
fastspares's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: LANCS UK
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Name:  4.jpg
Views: 76
Size:  27.8 KB



Name:  6.jpg
Views: 98
Size:  30.4 KB

It Lines up very well but of course when adjusting the chain and sprocket sizes for the different tracks it will move from side to side. I’ll try to come up with a sliding bracket to sit the sensor on but for now this will work ok.
Name:  7.jpg
Views: 106
Size:  37.7 KB

Gap between sensor is about 5mm
 
  #25  
Old 05-04-2010, 12:47 AM
SpiritRR's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Impressive mate. Two of my favorite models combined ... like Kate Beckinsdale and Gwyneth Paltrow in one lovely tart. Ha! Excellent work. Can't wait to see more progress.
 
  #26  
Old 05-04-2010, 01:49 PM
bambam's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: J-ville, FLORIDA
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

moving rite along bro, , ,im still following this build...CBZR...
 
  #27  
Old 05-04-2010, 03:23 PM
fastspares's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: LANCS UK
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks guys .... ordered my brake pressure sensor this afternoon
 
  #28  
Old 05-06-2010, 04:14 AM
fastspares's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: LANCS UK
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hey all thanks for all the encouragement!!!
….as we had a bank holiday here last weekend I did do a whole lot on Monday whilst keeping an eye on the BSB highlights! It certainly kept me going ..I didn't get chance to post it all up so here is a quick recap ...............
The wiring is getting very confusing as I’ve had to open up the entire loom to remove the road lighting bits. I also have to mount the ignitor and reg/rec and solenoid switch as these are the next lot of parts closest to the rear of the bike and sow in the speed sensor wire into the loom. I’m trying to keep any fragile parts inside the frame as an off might well damage them so they’ll be tucked in close to the battery. The sub frame is a racing alloy one and not much room there. Keeping the solenoid next to the battery was a logical move and was the first simple job just cable tied to the plastic battery case and gives good access to the main fuse. The Main wire leading to the starter motor will be run close to the LHS frame spar so the fuse/solenoid will be to the left of the rear ride height adjuster.

Name:  2.jpg
Views: 125
Size:  49.9 KB

Name:  4.jpg
Views: 75
Size:  43.7 KB
This was a very simple alloy plate folded at the bottom and I’ve riveted the original blade ignitor bracket in position but countersunk the allen head bolt so that when its seated it’ll allow the ignitor to sit back in its proper place. If you’re wondering how you lose the thickness of an allen bolt in a thin alloy plate ? I’ve turned up some alloy spacers so that the plate sits off the frame bar and the back of the fixings for the reg/rec don’t foul.
Name:  3-1.jpg
Views: 126
Size:  33.9 KB
 
  #29  
Old 05-06-2010, 06:53 AM
bambam's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: J-ville, FLORIDA
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

thats one of the old style regulators for the 900, no cooling finns, these are super prone to failure, if that one dies, be sure to replace with the current design.heres a pic of the new one . This pic is off of my old 93 900 RR.
 
Attached Thumbnails Blade FZR Union-cbr-pics-024.jpg  
  #30  
Old 05-06-2010, 12:14 PM
fastspares's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: LANCS UK
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Nice one BamBam ....
 


Quick Reply: Blade FZR Union



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:14 AM.